Peptides such as Argiriline, Matrixyl, Salmon Sperm DNA, Defensins and TriHex technology are some of the most popular antiaging ingredients in skin care products. But there are many myths about peptides in skin care creams and serums.

Peptides are safe and have benefits such as making the skin feel firm, smooth. and glow, but these effects are temporary. Marketing claims about peptides are greatly exaggerated and peptide creams and serums can be expensive, have poor shelf life, inactivate other products in your skin care routine, and in many cases are not worth the hype.

There are many types of peptides in skin care and the benefits and limitations of each type differs.

In this blog, I am going to share my opinion and the advice that I give my dermatology patients about peptides and if they work. I will also share which peptide products I recommend to my dermatology patients and which are a waste of money.

I will also address the claim that peptides are as good as Botox. 

Want to find the best peptides products for your skin type and build a custom skin care routine? Peptides are tricky to add to a routine because the products tend to react with each other and cancel each other out. 

I can help you build a skin care routine with peptide containing skin care products that are right for your Baumann Skin Type.

All you have to do is take the 3-5 minute free skincare routine quiz.

If you have dry skin, try the Zerafite Wrinkle Defense Barrier Cream which is the only barrier repair moisturizer with peptides.

 The best peptide cream to use before any skin procedures such as laser, microneedling, Morpheus, or Ulthera is Alastin Regenerating Skin Nectar.

The best peptide face creams are:

• Alastin Restorative Skin Complex
• Defenage 24/7 Barrier Balance Cream
• Revision DEJ Face Cream
• Revision DEJ Face Night Cream

• Zerafite Wrinkle Defense Barrier Cream

Peptide serums are better for  oily skin types. If you are a dry skin type, use a  barrier repair moisturizer on top of one of these serums.

These are our dermatologist's 10 recommended peptide serums (In alphabetical order):

1. Alastin Regenerating Skin Nectar
2. ClarityRx Get Fit Mult-Peptide Healthy Skin Serum  
3. Colorescience Pep Up Collagen Boost Face & Neck Serum 
4. Defenage 8 in 1 Bioserum
5.  Murad Targeted Wrinkle Corrector
6. Neocutis BIO SERUM FIRM Rejuvenating Growth Factor and Peptide Treatment  
7. Nuface Firming and radiant Super Peptide Booter Serum   
8.  PCA Skin ExLinea Pro Peptide Serum
9. PCA Skin Total Strength Serum
10. Revision Skincare Hydrating Serum 

Sunscreens may have peptides in them which will make them feel smoother on the skin.  Here are some of our favorite sunscreens with antiaging peptides:

• Colorescience Tint Du Soleil SPF 30 Whipped Foundation has Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-7
• Neocutis JOURNEE FIRM - Revitalizing & Refining Day Cream Broad Spectrum SPF 30 has Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 Acetate,Tetrapeptide-21
• ISDIN Eryfotona Ageless Tinted Mineral Sunscreen SPF 50 has Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Pentapeptide-34 Trifluoroacetate
• Revision Skincare Intellishade Clear SPF 50 has Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

If peptides are worth the cost depends upon the type of peptide and which Baumann Skin Type you have. 

The anti-aging peptides with the most evidence -based research studies are defensins, tripeptides and hexapeptides. Many of the peptides in skin care do not have lasting effects, have no long term benefits, are not worth splurging on.

Peptides are not the best anti-aging ingredients.

These anti-wrinkle ingredients are better than peptides and have much more data to back up their ability to treat the causes of skin aging and restoring collagen:

• Exosomes
• Retinoids
• Tissue Nutrient Solution
• Vitamin C

How to choose a product depends upon many factors including which of the 16 Baumann Skin Types you are.

Even products that are good may not be right for your skin type- so take a minute to take the quiz.

Once you know your skin type, you can shop for products by your skin type and get a personalized skin care routine with steps.

Be confident that peptides are right for you before you buy any products.

Peptides are short chains made of building blocks called amino acids. They bind together to make proteins.

When proteins are digested, they are broken down into peptides and then into amino acids.

They are found all over the body and used by many different cells in the body including skin cells.

Peptides have many jobs, like acting as receptors in cells and helping to make up important structures like collagen.

They can also bind to cells in the body to change how they communicate with other cells.

Peptides and the proteins they create regulate many cell functions.

This is why there are so many different types of peptides and they all have different attributes.

Skin care products make many claims based on the numerous beneficial effects that peptides have on skin cells in cell cultures.

However, they do not work the same in real life when placed on your skin (in vivo) and they do in a petri disk (in vitro).

When used topically in skin care, they give face creams or serums a distinctive consistency that is elegant and luxurious feeling.

So even though they usually do not have many biologic effects, they are still best selling anti-aging products in 2023.

(Some peptides do have biologic effects as you will see when you keep reading.)

Bottom line- this is what peptides really do for skin:

• They make the skin feel smooth by filling in the spaces between skin cells.
• They form a coating on the skin that makes it feel temporarily firmer

These effects disappear when the face is washed, but they explain why peptides are so popular in skin care.

The biggest benefit of peptides that accounts for their popularity in antiaging creams is that they make the skin feel and look smoother, firmer and tighter  by filling in the spaces between skin cells and making a protective smooth film on the skin's surface.

This film is removed when the skin is washed and these antiaging  benefits are temporary.

Peptides have many skin benefits, but the effects on skin vary by type of peptide.  The benefits of peptides on skin include:

• Firming Skin
• Tightening Skin
• Smoothing Skin
• Make skin glow
• Lightening dark spots
• Removing old broken collagen and elastin
• Speeding wound healing
• Removing bruises

Peptides have many disadvantages so do not buy any peptide skin care products unless you are shopping with your Baumann Skin Type.

There haven't been many studies on how well peptides actually work on real skin, but most do not absorb well. Most studies of how peptides affect the skin are in vitro studies of effects of peptides on fibroblast cells in a culture dish- not on human skin. This type of study does not consider absorption of the ingredients or how how they react with other ingredients in a real life situation.

Most peptides are too big to get through the top layer of skin (called the epidermis) and reach the deeper layers (called the dermis). None can reach the muscular layer below the dermis and fat layer which is why Argiriline cannot work like Botox does.

 The absorption of peptides into skin is also affected by several chemical factors such as:

• pH
• charge
• molecular weight
• concentration
• background electrolytes
• presence of lipids

 Some  peptides such as defensins can get into the skin through hair follicles instead of having to go through the top layer of skin.

Peptides have a very hard time getting into the skin because most are larger than the 500 Da size limit for molecules to get into the skin.

There are lots of things that can affect whether a compound will be able to get through the skin such as:

• How big it is
• What type it is
• How much of it there is in the product
• The temperature of the skin
• Thickness of the stratum corneum
• Is the skin damp or dry
• Other ingredients in the skin care product
• Layering with other products in the skin care routine

Scientists are working on ways to help peptides get through the skin such as:

• attaching them to fatty acids

• trying to get them to enter the skin through the hair follicle

• injecting them (mesotherapy)

• applying them after micro needling

• using patches with tiny needles

Peptides are unstable because some of their amino acid building blocks break down when they're exposed to light, pollution, other ingredients, enzymes, and certain chemicals. This is why thy have a very poor shelf life.  Keeping them in the refrigerator may help, but it depends on which type of peptide is in the skin product.

If a peptide is able to enter the skin ad get  to the mid and deep layers of the dermis were it needs to be to have function, it would have to deal with over 500 different enzymes that want break it down. It is very unlikely that the peptide will survive this onslaught of enzymes.

It's important to be mindful of potential interactions between skincare ingredients. Peptides are well known to react with other ingredients in skincare products, which can make those other ingredients less effective and increase side effects.

They are very reactive this can impact the stability and effectiveness of other ingredients in the product or in your routine. I often have patients that come in using an antiaging peptide in their skin care routine that is messing up the ability of other products in their routine to work.  This makes the entire skin care regimen ineffective and a waste of time and money.

Avoid using some peptides with these ingredients together in your skin care routine:

• Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) such as glycolic acid and lactic acid
• Beta Hydroxyacids (BHA) such as salicylic acid

• Ascorbic acid

• Benzoyl peroxide

• Retinoids

Peptides oxidize when exposed to peroxides, such as hydrogen peroxide and benzoyl peroxide. Oxidized peptides do not have good effects on the skin (they cause free radicals).

Peptides can also react with retinol, tretinoin, adapalene and tazarotene. They are very likely to interact with retinol, which is easily destabilized by peptides.(1)

This is why it is  not good to use certain peptides in acne skin care routines.

Let us help you design a routine that works!

Studies show that some peptides may have a negative impact on the stability of Vitamin C, which is sensitive to pH and oxidation.

Which peptides can be used together with Vitamin C depends on many factors.

Let me help you figure this out!  I do it every day with my dermatology patients.  Once you take the quiz, I can help you build a custom skin care routine that works.

The CIR Expert Panel reviewed the safety of these peptides in cosmetics, including tripeptide-1, hexapeptide-12, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl hexapeptide-12, tripeptide-1, copper tripeptide-1, and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7. (13)

The panel stated that they are safe for topical use at concentrations of less than 10 parts per million (ppm).

However, the panel did caution about the use of elastin-derivatives.

The safety assessments conducted by the CIR panel are based on the peptide product being used alone and not combined or layered in a skin care routine. Using peptides with other ingredients may cause the safety parameters to change, so caution is advised when combining them together or with other ingredients.

It is also unknown whether they are safe when applied to damaged skin, such as after micro needling or when injected into the skin.

The EWG also rates safety of peptides but you nee to look up the individual type of peptide to see their rating.

Side effects of peptides are unlikely because they stay on the skin’s surface and do not get down into the skin.

They rarely cause skin allergies, are usually noncomedogenic, and are not irritating.

Their safety is another reason they are a best-selling cosmeceutical ingredient.

The best peptides for anti-aging are:

• Defensins
• Tripeptides and hexapeptides

Defensins turn on stem cells in the epidermis. However, defensins do not help increase collagen, hyaluronic acid or elastin in the skin.

Tripeptides such as Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 and hexapeptides such as Acetyl Hexapeptide-38 and Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 help remove old broken collagen and elastin from the skin which frees up space space for new collagen to be made.

All peptides make the skin feel firmer and tighter by leaving a temporary film on the skin’s surface.

Think of peptides as like fondant on a cake. Fondant icing smooths the surface and holds in the cake. This makes it appear firmer; but when the fondant is removed, the cake loses firmness.

Peptides work the same way by coating the skin cells on the skin’s surface, temporarily making the skin feel firmer and tighter.

Learn more about skin firming and tightening here. 

Although peptides are noncomedogenic, they are not a good ingredient to use in an acne skin care routine because they react with other acne treatments such as:

Benzoyl peroxide

Retinoids

Diet is a good natural source of peptides for the skin. Eating protein will give you natural amino acids that your skin can use to make peptides. Other foods can also help you produce antiaging peptides naturally. 

For example, the popular antiaging peptide called Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 is this structure: Pal-Gly-His-Lys.  

• Palm oil- Contains Palmitoyl (Pal) which is a fatty acid.
• Milk and dairy products - contain glycine and lysine
• Meat, poultry, fish, and eggs - contain glycine, histidine, and lysine.
• Soybeans and soy products like tofu and edamame - contain glycine and lysine
• Lentils - contain histidine and lysine
• Nuts and seeds like almonds, walnuts, and pumpkin seeds - contain glycine and lysine
• Whole grains like oats, wheat germ, and brown rice - contain glycine
• Some vegetables like spinach, peas, and sweet potatoes - contain glycine and lysine

 Glycine, histidine, and lysine are essential amino acids needed for synthesis of this type pf peptide. Overall, a variety of common dietary proteins can provide the building blocks for matrikine peptides like Pal-Gly-His-Lys.

There are many types of peptides and each has different benefits and challenges.

It is complicated so let me help you shop for peptide skin care.

Signal peptides are messenger molecules that provide cells with functional instructions. In cosmeceuticals, certain signal peptides can stimulate cells to produce collagen, extracellular matrix components (ECM), and elastin precursors. One type of signal peptide called matrikines is derived from the extracellular matrix (ECM) itself.

Signal peptides like matrikines and defenins bind to cell surface receptors and activate signaling pathways that regulate cell-matrix interactions. This can stimulate production of new ECM components like collagen and elastin.

 In cosmeceuticals, signal and matrikine peptides aim to revitalize the ECM and improve skin strength, elasticity, and youthful appearance.

Defensins are natural peptide immune molecules that exhibit antimicrobial and anti-aging abilities. There are two main types - α-defensins found in the intestines, and β-defensins produced by epithelial skin cells. (5) In addition to fighting microbes, defensins activate dendritic immune cells, strengthen epithelial barriers, inhibit tumor growth, and stimulate dormant stem cells called LGR5+ and LGR6+. (10 -12)

Skin injury increases defensin levels, triggering an immune response while also activating LGR6+ stem cells. These cells regenerate the epidermis and skin appendages. By stimulating LGR6+ cells, defensins can quicken the skin cell regeneration cycle and rejuvenate aged skin. Though activating stem cells risks increased cancer growth, LGR6+ cells are relatively quiescent and protected in the hair follicle isthmus. Furthermore, some research shows defensins may actually suppress tumors.

Topical defensin cosmeceuticals aim to reach the hair follicle LGR6+ cells without needing to penetrate through upper skin layers. The synthetic defensin in the skin care brand DefenAge contains α-defensin 5 and β-defensin 3 bound to stabilizing albumin inside liposomes for optimized delivery. A 12-week double-blind study tested a three-product regimen with these defensins versus placebo control. Biopsies revealed increased epidermal thickness in the defensin group versus controls. Clinical grading also showed significant defensin-related improvements in pores, wrinkles, and pigmentation. While dermal thickness and some other measures were not significantly different, the results support defensins’ ability to rejuvenate aged photo-damaged skin. (5)

Matrikine peptides are a type of signal peptides. They are derived from the extracellular matrix (ECM) that regulate cell-matrix interactions. The name comes from the Greek word "matrik-" meaning matrix, and the suffix "-kine" denoting movement or activity. Though sometimes spelled "matricines," "matrikine" is preferred to avoid confusion with the unrelated compound matricin found in chamomile.

The ECM is primarily composed of proteins like collagen, glycosaminoglycans, and proteoglycans. As the ECM undergoes constant remodeling, protein fragments are released through enzymatic degradation. Specific peptide fragments called matrikines are bioactive and can influence cell behavior and matrix homeostasis.

Matrikines bind to receptors on the cell surface, triggering intracellular signaling cascades that regulate diverse cellular processes. These include cell-matrix adhesion, migration, proliferation, apoptosis, and synthesis or breakdown of ECM components. Some examples of matrikine peptides include collagen-derived endostatin, which inhibits angiogenesis, and laminin-derived peptides, which promote neurite outgrowth. Matrikines play important roles in tissue development, regeneration, and disease progression. 

List of matrikine peptides in skin care:

• Acetyl tetrapeptide-5
• Acetyl tetrapeptide-9
• Acetyl tetrapeptide-11
• Carnosine
• Copper tripeptide
• Hexapeptide
• Hexapeptide-11
• Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12
• Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4
• Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7
• Palmitoyl tripeptide-1  (may act on TGF-β)
• Palmitoyl tripeptide-3/5
• Pentamide-6
• Tetrapeptide PKEK
• Tetrapeptide-21
• Trifluoroacetyl-tripeptide-2
• Tripeptide-10-citrulline

Trihexide (or TriHex Technology a trademarked name by the brand Alastin)  contains the matrikine peptides palmitoyl tripeptide-1 and palmitoyl hexapeptide-12. (Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 is also called pal-GHK or Pal-Gly-His-Lys.)

Studies have investigated the effects of TriHex Technology on skin healing after procedures like laser resurfacing.  In 2017, Vanaman Wilson and colleagues conducted a randomized trial of 15 women aged 45-70 who underwent facial laser resurfacing. Ten subjects used a topical treatment containing tripeptide and hexapeptide matrikines, while five used standard ointments. The matrikine group showed less redness and leakage after one week, and better healing based on blinded investigator ratings. Subjects also reported fewer side effects on day 3 and higher satisfaction at 12 weeks compared to the control group. (4)

Other small studies found similar benefits of matrikine eye and facial treatments for improving skin texture and appearance after procedures. (5,6) 

A 2019 trial by Dr. Alan Widgerow studied an anti-aging regimen with tripeptide and hexapeptide matrikines in 22 women over 12 weeks. Significant improvements were seen in facial wrinkles and skin sagging. Biopsies in five subjects revealed increased elastin, collagen, and overall skin quality. Patients also reported high satisfaction with the treatment. (7)

While these clinical studies show faster healing and skin rejuvenation with matrikine peptides, more research is needed on the biological mechanisms involved. The hypothesis is that matrikines help remove damaged matrix components and stimulate regeneration. However, the trials were not designed to evaluate this theory at a molecular level. Overall, early evidence supports the use of matrikine treatments to improve outcomes in skin procedures, but more basic science research would help explain the underlying processes. Clinical studies with larger subject groups could also further validate the efficacy and optimal use of these peptides.

Products that contain TriHex Technology Matrikine Peptides are made by the skin care brand Alastin:

•    Alastin INhance Post-Injection Serum
•    Alastin Regenerating Skin Nectar
•    Alastin Restorative Skin Complex
•    Alastin Ultra Light Moisturizer with TriHex 
•    Alastin Ultra Nourishing Moisturizer

Body Options:

• Alastin Restorative Neck Complex

•   Alastin TransFORM Body Treatment
   

Most peptides have little research to support their use, but there are two good peptides that are worth the hype.

These peptides have been shown to really work.

• Defensins are signal peptides found in the brand Defenage

• Tripeptides and hexapeptides, also known as Trihexide and TriHex Technology in the brand Alastin.

There are many peptides for skin. This is a complete list of peptides ad which products containing them. to help you find peptide skincare products.

Take our skin type quiz to find which peptide skin care products are best for you and design a custom skincare routine with our help.

Acetylglutamyl Heptapeptide-1 is an anti-aging peptide composed of the amino acid sequence Acetyl-Glu-Glu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg. This SNAP-8 peptide is a modified form of Argireline.  It is proposed to function similarly to botulinum toxin by interfering with the SNARE complex involved in muscle contraction. The rationale is that inhibiting muscular contractions in the face could prevent wrinkle formation and relax existing expression lines. However, there is very limited evidence that SNAP-8 can actually penetrate into facial muscle tissue when applied topically to exert this effect. Small studies have shown some improvements in skin topography measurements with SNAP-8 creams, but robust clinical data demonstrating reduced facial wrinkles are lacking. Issues with skin penetration, insufficient concentrations reaching target tissues, and rapid breakdown by skin enzymes likely limit the efficacy of topical SNAP-8. While the concept of mimicking botulinum toxin with a topical peptide is theoretically appealing, current SNAP-8 formulations have not convincingly demonstrated meaningful anti-wrinkle outcomes. More penetrable delivery systems and well-designed clinical trials are needed to fully evaluate the potential of this peptide.

• Obagi Professional C Peptide
• PCA Skin ExLinea Pro Peptide Serum
• Revision Skincare Revox 7 Line Relaxer

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5

• Medature Luxurious Repair Eye Cream
• Osmosis MD Skincare Boost Peptide Activating Mist

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9

• Colorescience Pep Up Collagen Boost Face & Neck Serum
• Vichy LiftActive Peptide

Acetylglutamyl Heptapeptide-1

• ClarityRx Get Fit Mult-Peptide Healthy Skin Serum

Acetyl Hexapeptide-37

• Biopelle Brightening KNR Serum

Acetyl Hexapeptide-38

• Alastin INhance Post-Injection Serum

Copper Tripeptide-1

• Colorescience Pep Up Collagen Boost Face & Neck Serum
• Medature Luxurious Repair Eye Cream

Dipeptide-2

• Derma Made eye
• Filorga OPTIM-EYES Revitalizing Eye Contour Cream
• Replenix Age Restore Anti-Wrinkle Retinol Eye Repair
• SkinCeuticals A.G.E. Eye Complex

Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate

• ClarityRx Get Fit Mult-Peptide Healthy Skin Serum
• Colorescience Pep Up Collagen Boost Face & Neck Serum
• Revision Skincare Revox 7

Diaminopropionoyl Tripeptide-33

• Biopelle Tensage Stem Cell Cream

Hexapeptide-11 —upregulates hyaluronon synthase 2 (HAS2) and potently downregulates HA reducing enzyme hyaluronidase 2 (HYAL2) in keratinocytes (16)

• Alastin A-Luminate Brightening Serum
• Alastin HA Immerse Serum
• Alastin INhance Post-Injection Serum
• Alastin TransFORM Body Treatment

Hexapeptide-12

• Alastin A-Luminate Brightening Serum

Hexapeptide-9

• Medature Luxurious Repair Eye Cream

Octapeptide-45

• Alastin HA Immerse Serum

Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5

• Alastin Restorative Skin Complex
• Revision Skincare Intellishade Clear SPF 50

Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate

• Alastin Restorative Skin Complex

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

• Alastin INhance Post-Injection Serum
• Alastin Regenerating Skin Nectar
• Alastin Restorative Skin Complex
• Alastin TransFORM Body Treatment
• Alastin Ultra Light Moisturizer with TriHex Technology
• Alastin Ultra Nourishing Moisturizer

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14

• Revision Skincare D.E.J. Face Cream
• Revision Skincare D.E.J. Night Face Cream

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-19

• Revision Skincare Revox 7

Palmitoyl Hydroxypropyltrimonium Amylopectin/glycerin Crosspolymer

• Biopelle Tensage Stem Cell Cream

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide

• Revision Skincare Nectifirm Neck cream
• SkinCeuticals A.G.E. Eye Complex

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

• Medature Luxurious Repair Eye Cream

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

• ClarityRx Get Fit Mult-Peptide Healthy Skin Serum
• Derma Made eye
• Filorga OPTIM-EYES Revitalizing Eye Contour Cream
• Replenix Age Restore Anti-Wrinkle Retinol Eye Repair
• Revision Skincare Firming Night Treatment
• Revision Skincare Nectifirm Neck cream
• Revision Skincare Revox 7
• SkinCeuticals A.G.E. Eye Complex

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

• Alastin INhance Post-Injection Serum
• Alastin Regenerating Skin Nectar
• Alastin Restorative Skin Complex
• Alastin TransFORM Body Treatment
• Alastin Ultra Light Moisturizer with TriHex Technology
• Alastin Ultra Nourishing Moisturizer
• Derma Made eye
• Medature Luxurious Repair Eye Cream
• Nuface Firming and radiant Super Peptide Booter Serum

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

• Alastin Restorative Skin Complex
• Medature Luxurious Repair Eye Cream
• Revision Skincare Hydrating Serum
• Revision Skincare Intellishade Clear SPF 50
• Revision Skincare Nectifirm Neck cream

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-28

• Revision Skincare Revox 7

Palmitoyloligopeptide

• ClarityRx Get Fit Mult-Peptide Healthy Skin Serum
• Replenix Age Restore Anti-Wrinkle Retinol Eye Repair

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 Acetate

• Neocutis BIO SERUM FIRM Rejuvenating Growth Factor and Peptide Treatment
• Neocutis JOURNEE FIRM - Revitalizing & Refining Day Cream Broad Spectrum SPF 30
• Neocutis MICRO GEL – Moisturizing Hydrogel

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

• ISDIN Eryfotona Ageless Tinted Mineral Sunscreen SPF 50
• PCA Skin Total Strength Serum

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-7

• Colorescience Tint Du Soleil SPF 30 Whipped Foundation
• ISDIN Age Contour Night
• ISDIN Hyaluronic Concentrate

Pentapeptide-18

• ClarityRx Get Fit Mult-Peptide Healthy Skin Serum

Pentapeptide-34 Trifluoroacetate

• ISDIN Eryfotona Ageless Tinted Mineral Sunscreen SPF 50

Pentasodium Tetracarboxymethyl Acetylhydroxyprolyl Dipeptide-12

• Alastin A-Luminate Brightening Serum

Pentasodium Tetracarboxymethyl Dipeptide-51

• Alastin A-Luminate Brightening Serum

Sh-oligopeptide-1

• Colorescience Pep Up Collagen Boost Face & Neck Serum
• PCA Skin Total Strength Serum

Tetrapeptide-21

• Neocutis BIO SERUM FIRM Rejuvenating Growth Factor and Peptide Treatment
• Neocutis JOURNEE FIRM - Revitalizing & Refining Day Cream Broad Spectrum SPF 30
• Neocutis MICRO GEL – Moisturizing Hydrogel

Tetrapeptide-5

• Revision Skincare Firming Night Treatment

Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2

• Revision Skincare Revox 7

Tripeptide-1

• Colorescience Pep Up Collagen Boost Face & Neck Serum
• Medature Luxurious Repair Eye Cream

Tripeptide-10 Citrulline

• Colorescience Pep Up Collagen Boost Face & Neck Serum

Tripeptide-9 Citrulline

• Biopelle Tensage Stem Cell Cream

• Alastin INhance Post-Injection Serum
• Alastin TransFORM Body Treatment
• Revision Skincare D.E.J. Face Cream
• Revision Skincare D.E.J. Night Face Cream
• Medature Luxurious Repair Eye Cream

This peptide is in  SkinMedica TNS Advanced + Serum. I could not find any published studies, but the SkinMedica website says that this peptide "supports healthy immune system regulation to reduce skin sensitivity and reactivity." supports healthy immune system regulation to reduce skin sensitivity and reactivity

This is a proprietary blend of proteins and polypeptides with growth factors, interleukins, and cytokines found in Neocutis skincare products.

This antiaging peptide is comprised of the amino acid sequence Thr-Thr-Glu, with a trifluoroacetyl group modifier. It is also called “progeline”. The claim is that it can bring cell activity back to the level of 20 year old skin. It works by inhibiting the production of progerin - a protein that speeds aging. A 2013 review article in the journal Dermatology hypothesizes it may stimulate elastin and fibronectin production based on in vitro fibroblast studies, but notes efficacy data are lacking. (15) Companies with this ingredient say it" improves sagging skin and other signs of aging" but evidence-based  data are still lacking.

NO! Peptides do not work as well as Boto and other types of botulinum toxin Type A.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 claims it is, but it cannot penetrate through all of the skin's layers into the muscle where Botox is injected.

If you are looking for good peptide products, make sure you shop by your Baumann Skin Type. There are 16 skin types and each needs different products!

Let me help you build the best skin care routine for you!

1. Baumann, L. Ch. 37 Antiaging Ingredients in Baumann's Cosmetic dermatology. 3rd ed. (McGraw Hill 2022)
2. Baumann ,L. Ch. 81 in Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients (McGraw Hill 2015)
3. Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 308–319.
4. Vanaman Wilson MJ, Bolton J, Fabi SG. A randomized, single-blinded trial of a tripeptide/hexapeptide healing regimen following laser resurfacing of the face. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2017;16(2):217-222.
5. Reivitis A, Karimi K, Griffiths C, Banayan A. A single-center, pilot study evaluating a novel TriHex peptide- and botanical-containing eye treatment compared to baseline. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2018;17(3):467-470.
6. Nelson AM, Ortiz AE. Effects of anhydrous gel with TriHex peptides on healing after hybrid laser resurfacing. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2020;19(4):925-929.
7. Widgerow AD, Jiang LI, Calame A. A single-center clinical trial to evaluate the efficacy of a tripeptide/hexapeptide antiaging regimen. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2019;18(1):176-182.
8. Taub A, Bucay V, Keller G, Williams J, Mehregan D. Multi-Center, Double-Blind, Vehicle-Controlled Clinical Trial of an Alpha and Beta Defensin-Containing Anti-Aging Skin Care Regimen With Clinical, Histopathologic, Immunohistochemical, Photographic, and Ultrasound Evaluation. J Drugs Dermatol. 2018;17(4):426-441.
9. Snippert HJ, Haegebarth A, Kasper M, Jaks V, van Es JH, Barker N, et al. Lgr6 marks stem cells in the hair follicle that generate all cell lineages of the skin. Science. 2010;327(5971):1385-9.
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