Oils in Skin Care Products
Oil in skin care products
The best oils to use in skin care products depends upon your skin type because oils have many different skin benefits.
You need to know what issues your skin has before buying an oil to use in your skin care routine.
Oils are found in a variety of products including moisturizers and serums.
To find a good natural oil for your skin, look and see which fatty acids the oils contains.
Fatty acids impart many of the benefits that oils have in skin care.
Oils greatly affect how well your skin care routine will work by influencing absorption of other products in your skin care routine.
Oils hydrate the skin and provide protective barriers to keep water in the skin.
Oils can be used to treat:
The best oil for your skin depends on which of the 16 Baumann Skin Types you are.
Table of Contents
What makes something an oil?
An oil is a substance that is liquid at room temperature and insoluble in water.
Oils are a type of lipid, which is basically a synonym for fat.
Lipids are defined as molecules that are dissolvable in nonpolar solvents.
They are hydrophobic, meaning they repel water.
There are three classes of lipids:
- Triglycerides: Formed from glycerol and 3 fatty acids.
- Phospholipids: Made of two fatty acids, a glycerol and a phosphate.
- Sterols: Alcohols that are a subgroup of steroids with a hydroxyl group.
Oils are triglycerides that are fluid at room temperature.
Oils contain fatty acids.
Fatty acids can be classified as saturated, monounsaturated or polyunsaturated based on their hydrogen-carbon bonds.
The benefits of oils in skin care depends on the type of fatty acids the oil contains.
What are the best oils for skin care?
Oils vary in efficacy based on their fatty acid composition and the way they were processed, bottled and stored.
16 of the most commonly recommended oils in skin care:
How often should you put oil on your face?
Whether or not to use oil on your face depends upon your skin type.
Do not use oil on your face if you are an oily skin type.
If you are a dry skin type, you can use oil once or twice a day on your face.
Extremely dry skin types can use oil 3-4 times a day on the body if necessary, and 2-3 times on the face.
To find the best skin care regimen for your skin type, take the quiz and see get a custom skin care regimen.
Benefits
Oils can serve multiple purposes in skin care, but are used primarily in moisturizers.
They can work as occlusives, which create a barrier on skin that prevents dryness by preventing water from evaporating off of the skin.
They can help restore lipids and fatty acids to the skin barrier.
Fatty acids give them other qualities depending on the fatty acid.
Products containing linoleic acids are anti-inflammatory.
Oils with unsaturated fatty acids can lighten dark spots.
All oils smooth skin and help it glow.
Safety
Yes, oils are used in myriad skin care products as moisturizing ingredients and do not pose any particular risks if used appropriately.
Some oils such as lanolin or petrolatum have been observed to cause allergic reactions in some skin types.
To see which oils are right for your skin care regimen, click here to learn more about the Baumann Skin Types.
What are plant oils?
Plant oils and extracts are among the most popular oils in skin care and are naturally sourced.
Plant oils and extracts are sometimes called of essential oils, check out our article on essential oils in skin care to learn more!
Several oils such as Argan oil are harvested by growers trying to give their local community better jobs, living conditions and pay.
As people grow increasingly environmentally conscious, they turn to skincare products with natural oils rather than synthetic occlusive ingredients like dimethicone and petrolatum.
Plant oils like extra virgin olive oil have been shown to have antioxidant properties.
Does using oil-based products lower natural oil production in skin?
There used to be a common misunderstanding that using oils on the skin reduced long term sebum production.
People stopped expressing this opinion in the early 2000's, as those claims were shown to be false in multiple studies.
Using oils on the skin does not interfere or change the amount of secretions from the sebaceous gland,
It is commonly accepted that products like oil-based moisturizers do not inhibit natural facial oil production.
What does "oil-free" mean on skin care product labels?
You can tell if a product has oil in it by reading the skin care product label. The ingredient will have have the word “oil” in the INCI name.
Oil-free means that no ingredients with "oil" in the INCI name are in the product.
There are ingredients that are not classified as oils that make products feel greasy, and are not optimal for patients with oily skin. These may be found in products labeled as oil-free.
Oil-free products can be comedogenic.
In other words, products labeled "oil free" products still run the risk of feeling oily and clogging pores.
Moisturizing
Oils moisturizer the skin in several ways, they:
- Provide occlusion
- Prevent water evaporation form skin's surface
- Push other ingredients into the skin
- Supply fatty acids that can help strengthen the skin barrier
Best oils in skin moisturizers?
The best oil to choose for your skin depends upon what skin issues you have.
There are multiple types of moisturizers that all work a little differently.
Many kinds of oils are considered great for skin care, but the product that's best for you depends on your skin type.
Whether you are treating eczema. psoriasis, rough elbows or just dry skin, applying body oil on damp skin is a great way to hydrate and smooth body skin.
Our favorite dermatologist-recommended body oil is
Avene Skin Care Oil- It has safflower oil, shea butter, Camelina Sativa Seed Oil and Vitamin E.
Find more body oil recommendations here:
Inflammation
Look for oils with soothing linoleic acid fatty acids to soothe skin.
3 examples of oils that treat skin redness are:
Skin lightening
Oils with unsaturated fatty acids are best for skin lightening and brightening because they help inhibit tyrosinase.
These oils can be used to treat dark spots such as melasma and sun spots, but should be combined with stronger skin lighters in a complete hyperpigmentation treatment regimen.
Some common oils with unsaturated fats in skin care are:
- Argan oil
- Avocado oil
- Safflower oil
- Sesame oil
- Soybean oil
- Sunflower oil
- Tsubaki oil
Best oil to treat acne?
Tea tree oil has antimicrobial activity, so it can be used to treat acne.
In general, looking for oils with antimicrobial activity that aren't comedogenic is a good starting point.
Avoid coconut oil if you have acne.
Best oil for glowing skin?
All oils are emollients which help increase light reflection from the skin.
All oils can help skin glow, especially if they are used following an exfoliant.
Best oil for dry skin?
If you have eczema or very dry skin, it is critical to use a barrier repair moisturizer.
Skin barrier repair moisturizers can contain oil, but using oil alone on extremely dry skin is not enough.
Skin needs a combination of fatty acids from oils, ceramides and cholesterol - so oil alone is not enough to treat dry skin.
Avoid oils with high concentrations of oleic fatty acid when you have extremely dry skin because oleic acid can impair the skin barrier.
Five of the best oils for dry skin are:
Best oils to treat psoriasis?
Many oils are safe for use in treatment of psoriasis.
Psoriasis is a condition that causes flakiness and inflammation on skin.
So, when looking for an oil to treat psoriasis, choose oils that have linoleic acid such as:
- Argan oil
- Borage seed oil
- Grape seed oil
- Safflower oil
- Sunflower oil
Moisturizers containing oils are used commonly to treat psoriasis.
Can you use oils to treat eczema?
Eczema is a dry skin condition.
Many oil based moisturizing creams are considered among the best for treating eczema.
Olive oil is not recommended for use with eczema because it contains high concentrations of oleic acid.
Oleic acid can create tiny holes on skin barrier, allowing allergens, microbes and irritants to enter the skin.
Look for oils containing low concentrations of oleic acid, and high concentrations of linoleic acid.
Which oils are best for sensitive skin types?
Most oils are usable for sensitive skin types unless they are comedogenic.
Comedogenic oils may cause clogged pores.
Olive oils contain a high concentration of oleic acid, which is not recommended for most skin types.
The best oils for sensitive skin types (depending on your sensitive skin subtype) might be:
Which oils should I use with retinoid products?
Oils can be use with retinoids, including Retin A.
When oils are used before retinoids, they lower absorption and decrease side effects. When oils are used after retinoids, they increase absorption and can increase side effects.
A good oil to use with retinoids is argan oil.
Argan oil is an inflammation-soothing oil with high concentrations of linoleic fatty acids.
Is coconut oil safe for skin?
Coconut oil is found in a number of skin care products and has been used for years.
Coconut oil is considered an EWG "Verified" product, the best possible hazard score for a skin care ingredient.
This means that coconut oil is in fact especially safe for use in skin care.
However coconut oil may be a comedogenic ingredient and can clog the pores of acne-prone skin types.
The effects of coconut oil in skin care vary greatly depending on how the oil is processed.
To find out if coconut oil is the right ingredient for your skin, shop for skin care products using your Baumann Skin Type.
Dangers of oils in skin care
Sensitive skin types are more vulnerable to clogged pores while using oils than resistant skin types.
Overuse of occlusive oils can cause skin to retain too much moisture.
Holding too much moisture on the skin can lead to a change in microbiome.
Be sure to moisturize based on your personalized skin care regimen.
Oils with high concentrations of oleic fatty acids can damage the skin barrier and make skin more susceptible to allergens.
Some oils are comedogenic and are likely to clog pores, potentially leading to acne.
Oils effect different skin types in different ways, so the best way to make sure you're using the right oils for your skin is to shop by your Baumann Skin Type.
What are essential oils?
Essential oils are not always true oils as many do not contain lipids.
The term essential oils is used primarily to describe plant-based fragrances.
"Essential oils" is not a real classification of oils, rather a classification of pressed plant extracts.
They are not necessarily all oils, but many are.
Many people have mild allergies to some essential oils.
What are mineral oils?
Mineral oils are derived from petrolatum-based compounds.
Petrolatum is derived from the process of petroleum or crude oil production.
They are considered extremely effective occlusive agents.
These oils often exhibit greasy textures that are not acceptable for oily skin types.
What are dry oils?
Dry oils are polyunsaturated fats which oxidize into film-like solids.
“Dry oils” do not leave a "greasy" residue on the skin, while “wet oils” often do leave a greasy reside.
They are not typical oils because they are not always a liquid at room temperature.
Dry oils are also commonly found in products outside of skin care meant to leave long lasting coats, like paint and varnish products.
What is lanolin?
Lanolin is an animal-derived oil produced by livestock, primarily sheep.
The sheep are not necessarily harmed to retrieve lanolin.
Lanolin is a sebaceous secretion of sheep. (Humans also secrete sebum, a reason our skin gets oily.)
Lanolin is spun from wool in centrifuges during regular wool processing.
It cannot be synthesized, and behaves differently based on treatment processes.
Lanolin has been observed to incite mild allergic reactions in some people.
Lanolin is not a vegan product.
It is considered comedogenic.
Some products are labeled “Lanolin-free” for those reasons.
Fatty acids in Face and Body Oils
Fatty acids determine the benefits that oils have on the skin.
Here is a table of some commonly used oils in skin care comparing their active fatty acid contents.
What are the differences between saturated and unsaturated oils?
Both saturated and unsaturated oils are used in skin care products and cosmetics.
Oils with a predominance of unsaturated fatty acids have lopsided hydrocarbon chains that do not form solid lipid bilayers as well as saturated fatty acid do.
Saturated fats have hydrocarbon chains which easily align into lipid bilayers, forming a more solid structure.
Unsaturated fats do not oxidize into solids at room temperature. This is why oils made with saturated fats have a creamier consistency than oils made of unsaturated fats.
When to replace a skin care oil once it is open?
The shelf life of face oils depends upon what type of oils are in the products.
Saturated fats melt at a higher temperature than polyunsaturated fats do, and therefore have longer shelf life and turn take longer to turn rancid. This means that organic skin care products (without preservatives) will have a longer shelf life if they are made from oils with saturated fatty acids.
Organic oils made from oil with unsaturated fatty acids will not last as long and should be replaced within 2-3 months of opening- especially if kept in a warm environment.
Which fatty acids in skin care are saturated fats?
Four common saturated fatty acids found in skin care are
- Lauric acid
- Myristic acid
- Palmitic acid
- Stearic acid
Which fatty acids in skin care are monounsaturated fats?
Two of the most common monounsaturated fatty acids in skin care are:
- Oleic acid (an omega-9)
- Palmitoleic acid
Which fatty acids in skin care are polyunsaturated fats?
Four common polyunsaturated fatty acids in skin care are:
- Linolenic acid
- Eicosatetraenoic acid
- Docosahexaenoic (an omega-3)
- Linoleic (omega-6)
Can you use oil-based products when you have acne?
It is safe to use many types of oil based products in skin care in some cases when you have acne.
When you have acne, it is recommended to avoid Comedogenic oils.
Comedogenic oils are occlusive oils that often clog pores in certain skin types.
Make sure the oils in your skin care products are non-comedogenic.
Oils to avoid if you are susceptible to acne are:
- Almond oil
- Bubussa oil
- Cajeput oil
- Castor oil
- Chaulmoogra oil
- Coconut oil (depending on processing)
- Corn oil
- Cotton seed oil
- Evening primrose oil
- Hydrogenated castor oil
- Hydrogenated vegetable oil
- Lanolin oil
- Mink oil
- Peach kernel oil
- Peanut oil
- Sandalwood seed oil
- Sesame oil
- Shark liver oil
- Soybean oil
- Sulfated castor oil
- Sulfated jojoba oil
- Wheat germ oil
Which oils are best for my skin type?
Different skin types react differently to many ingredients, including oils.
To find out which oils are best for your skin type, and to find personalized recommendations for your own skin care regimen, take the Baumann Skin Type questionnaire and build a routine for your skin type!
Dr. Leslie Baumann MD, FAAD
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