I Ruined My Skin Barrier and Now I Have Rosacea – Help!
In addition to the many rosacea patients I have seen over the years, I have seen many recent discussions about a damaged skin barrier and newly developed rosacea on the SkinTypeSolutions subreddit. While a damaged skin barrier certainly contributes to rosacea flare-ups, it is the underlying inflammation that comes along with skin barrier damage that is the main issue. The good news is that by reducing the inflammation and taking steps to promote a healthy skin barrier, you can effectively manage rosacea symptoms.
A damaged skin barrier has holes in it that allow irritants and allergens to reach the skin.
This causes inflammation, which causes further damage to the skin barrier.
Using soothing skin care and avoiding harsh products can help.
How To Repair an Impaired Skin Barrier
There are many ways to protect your skin barrier. But - once it is impaired, there is only one way to repair your skin barrier and that is with a barrier repair moisturizer.
The best barrier repair repair moisturizers have a Maltese Cross Pattern. The moisturizers below are rosacea safe barrier repair moisturizers that have the maltese cross pattern when viewed under a microscope which means they mimic the skin's natural barrier structure.
What Is an Impaired Skin Barrier?
The skin barrier is a protective layer of lipids that surround the skin cells in the outermost layer of skin, called the epidermis. When this lipid layer is intact and functioning properly, it is able to form a protective seal on the skin, performing two important functions: 1) to keep moisture sealed inside and 2) to keep bacteria, irritants, and allergens out.
An impaired skin barrier has little holes in this lipid layer, which allows water to evaporate out of the skin and also lets allergens and irritants in. This influx of irritants and allergens then triggers your skin’s immune response, which “turns on” inflammatory pathways.
Many factors can contribute to skin barrier damage, including:
Sun exposure
Harsh weather, such as extreme cold, heat, or wind
Smoking
Prolonged exposure to water, such as regularly taking very long baths
Harsh skin care and personal care ingredients
Friction on the skin
Chlorine in swimming pools
Poor diet, particularly one low in healthy fats
Certain medications, such as cholesterol-lowering statins
If your skin feels dry, tight, or itchy and/or appears dull, rough, or red, you likely have barrier damage.
The Role of Inflammation
Whether you are struggling with a damaged skin barrier on its own or also in conjunction with rosacea, inflammation plays a central role in your symptoms and also the best treatments. Thus, inflammation is both a cause and a consequence of an impaired skin barrier. When the skin barrier is damaged, it allows irritants, allergens, and microbes to penetrate more easily, triggering an immune response that leads to inflammation. In turn, this inflammation further disrupts the barrier, creating a cycle of damage and irritation.
For those with rosacea, inflammation can be triggered much more easily, which can disrupt the skin’s barrier and lead to this cyclical effect of symptoms. Because of this, it is crucial to “turn off” these inflammatory responses so that your skin can heal.
How to Reduce Inflammation and Restore a Healthy Skin Barrier
There are many ways to reduce inflammation and restore a healthy skin barrier:
Soothing skin care products such as Zerafite Soothing and Calming Moisturizer, Zerafite Creamy Cleanser, and pure organic argan oil can help to reduce redness and inflammation while also restoring important lipids to the skin barrier.
Do not exfoliate damaged skin.
Do not take very hot showers or wash your face with very hot water. Use room temperature water instead.
Never put your face in an ice bath.
Avoid using chemical sunscreens on your face unless you spend hours outdoors in the sun.
Eat an anti-inflammatory diet. Foods like salmon, berries, walnuts, and many others are anti-inflammatory. Avoid inflammatory foods like sugary drinks, fried foods, and ultra-processed foods.
Make sure your skin care routine is right for your skin type. Using the wrong products and ingredients can damage the skin barrier and make redness or stinging worse.
Best Anti-Inflammatory Skin Care Ingredients
You can view a full list of anti-inflammatory skin care ingredients in the SkinTypeSolutions Ingredient Dictionary. A few of the most common and effective include:
The best anti-inflammatory skin care products will depend on which of the 16 skin types you are. As a general guide, however, below are a few favorite anti-inflammatory skin care products:
Bottom Line
A damaged skin barrier and rosacea can go hand-in-hand, and the common underlying issue for both is inflammation. By taking steps to reduce inflammation – such as using soothing skin care ingredients and avoiding exfoliants – you can help to promote a healthy skin barrier and reduce symptoms like dryness, itching, stinging, and redness.
If you don’t already know your skin type, take the quiz below to find out so that you can receive a customized skin care regimen that is right for your skin.
Does rosacea always mean an impaired skin barrier?
Unmanaged rosacea is characterized by a damaged skin barrier (3). However, people with properly managed rosacea can significantly improve the health and function of the skin barrier, thus reducing symptoms and flare-ups.
What’s the number-one trigger for rosacea?
Sun exposure is the leading trigger for rosacea flares. According to the National Rosacea Society, more than 80% of people with rosacea say that the sun causes a flare-up.
Why did I suddenly develop rosacea?
Rosacea can develop suddenly due to a combination of genetic factors and external triggers like stress, sun exposure, changes in skincare, or hormonal shifts that disrupt the skin's balance and immune response.
Best References and Scientific Publications on the Skin Barrier and Rosacea
- Baumann L. Moisturizers in Ch. 43 of Baumann's Cosmetic Dermatology Ed 3. (McGraw Hill 2022)
- Baumann, L. Ch. Cosmeceuticals and cosmetic Ingredients (McGraw Hill 2015)
- Medgyesi B, Dajnoki Z, Béke G, Gáspár K, Szabó IL, Janka EA, Póliska S, Hendrik Z, Méhes G, Törőcsik D, Bíró T, Kapitány A, Szegedi A. Rosacea Is Characterized by a Profoundly Diminished Skin Barrier. J Invest Dermatol. 2020 Oct;140(10):1938-1950.e5. doi: 10.1016/j.jid.2020.02.025. Epub 2020 Mar 19. PMID: 32199994.
- Addor, F. A. S. A. (2016). Skin barrier in rosacea. Anais Brasileiros de Dermatologia, 91(1), 59-63.
- Deng, Z., Chen, M., Xie, H., Jian, D., Xu, S., Peng, Q., ... & Li, J. (2019). Claudin reduction may relate to an impaired skin barrier in rosacea. The Journal of Dermatology, 46(4), 314-321.
- Draelos, Z. D., Ertel, K., & Berge, C. (2005). Niacinamide-containing facial moisturizer improves skin barrier and benefits subjects with rosacea. CUTIS-NEW YORK-, 76(2), 135.
- Maden, S. (2024). Epidermal skin barrier and skin care in Rosacea: A narrative review. Dermis, 4(3), 1-7.
- Xu, Z., Yu, B., Xu, B., Ye, S., Qing, Y., Zhao, B., ... & Wu, J. (2024). Oral tranexamic acid treats papulopustular rosacea by improving the skin barrier. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 23(9), 2918-2926.