The Science of Camellia Oil in Skin Care

Camellia oil, also known as tsubaki oil or tsubaki seed oil, is derived from the seeds of Camellia japonica, a flowering tree native to East Asia. Historically a staple in Japanese beauty routines, camellia oil is known for its deeply hydrating and skin-nourishing qualities, thanks to its unique blend of fatty acids, vitamins, and antioxidants.

One key benefit of camellia oil is that, unlike some other types of oils, it has a very low comedogenic rating, meaning it won’t clog pores or cause breakouts. In this guide, I’ll explain more about the unique skin benefits of camellia oil and provide recommendations on how to incorporate it into your skin care regimen based on your skin type.

Camellia oil is extracted from the seeds of the Camellia japonica plant, also known as the Japanese camellia. This oil has been a beauty staple for centuries in East Asian cultures, particularly in Japan, where it has been used for hair, skin, and nail care. The oil is lightweight, non-comedogenic, quickly absorbed, and packed with bioactive compounds that work to improve the skin’s moisture balance, reduce irritation, and promote a smooth, glowing complexion.

Camellia oil, or tsubaki oil, contains a long list of bioactive compounds that make it particularly beneficial for dry or mature skin. These compounds include:

• Fatty acids. Camellia oil contains oleic acid, linoleic acid, alpha-linolenic acid, and stearic acid, though oleic acid is the most abundant. Oleic acid is a monounsaturated fatty acid that can deeply hydrate the skin, as it is able to reach the deeper layers beyond the skin’s surface. Oleic acid strengthens the skin’s lipid barrier, reduces water loss, and helps to soften and smooth dry or rough skin.
• Vitamins A, B, D, and E. Tsubaki oil contains a range of vitamins that offer antioxidant protection, support cellular repair, and enhance skin texture. Vitamin E, for example, acts as a powerful antioxidant and aids in skin hydration, while vitamins A and D promote cell turnover and support a more even skin tone.
• Polyphenols. These natural antioxidants protect the skin from oxidative stress and environmental pollutants. Polyphenols are known for their anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and anti-aging properties. 
  

• Phytosterols. Phytosterols are plant-derived compounds that can help to reinforce the skin’s barrier and improve moisture retention. Beta-sitosterol , an abundant phytosterol in camellia oil, also has anti-inflammatory and anti-aging effects on the skin.

• Squalene.  Squalene  is a lipid that is naturally found in the sebum in your skin and is therefore an important component of your skin’s barrier function (3). This compound is also found in many plant seed oils, including tsubaki oil, offering added hydration and promoting healthy barrier function. 

• Flavonoids. Flavonoids are strong antioxidant compounds found in abundance in plants like Camellia japonica. These compounds help to neutralize free radicals that would otherwise cause oxidative damage to the skin, leading to signs of premature aging.

• Saponins. Saponins are natural cleansing agents with mild antimicrobial properties. Thus, they help to cleanse the skin without stripping its natural oils, making camellia oil suitable for sensitive skin types. Saponins also have anti-inflammatory properties, helping to reduce redness and soothe irritated skin.

Because of its broad range of active compounds, camellia oil can provide the skin with a number of key benefits:

• Improves skin hydration and barrier function. The oleic acid, vitamin E, and squalene naturally found in tsubaki oil allow this ingredient to improve skin hydration and overall barrier function by supporting the skin’s natural lipid content.
• Free radical protection and anti-aging. The antioxidants found in camellia oil give this ingredient its anti-aging properties. Antioxidants scavenge free radicals that could otherwise cause cellular damage and lead to lines, wrinkles, and sagging skin.
• Supports collagen production. The vitamins A and E in tsubaki oil stimulate fibroblasts, the specialized cells that are responsible for collagen synthesis. This, in turn, helps to promote a youthful-looking complexion by increasing the amount of collagen in the skin.
• Improves dark spots. Studies have found that camellia oil has the ability to inhibit melanin production by suppressing tyrosinase, an enzyme that plays a key role in melanin production (4). Because of this, camellia oil may help to brighten the skin and improve uneven skin tone and dark spots.
• Reduces inflammation. Tsubaki oil contains anti-inflammatory phytosterols, saponins, and other calming compounds that can reduce redness and soothe irritated or sensitive skin. 

Tsubaki oil is typically well-tolerated for most Baumann Skin Types and does not come with notable side effects. That said, if you are using products that contain tsubaki oil and other ingredients, make sure the product is a match for your skin type.

Due to its light texture, non-comedogenic nature, and hydrating properties, camellia oil is often included in moisturizers, anti-aging creams and serums, and face oils. When choosing a camellia oil skin care product, look for cold-pressed or pure camellia oil as a primary ingredient, as this method preserves the oil’s natural vitamins and antioxidants. A few high-quality skin care products that contain camellia oil are listed below.

Camellia oil can be used on its own as a pure face oil or as a skin care formulation mixed with other synergistic ingredients to enhance its benefits. If using the oil on its own, apply a few drops to clean skin either in place of a moisturizer or along with your moisturizer.

If using a skin care product that contains camellia oil, the way that you add it to your skin care regimen will depend on the type of product that you are using. Camellia oil is often included as an ingredient in barrier repair moisturizers, for example, which can be applied to dry, damaged skin as often as needed. Anti-aging and eye serums that contain this ingredient can be applied either in the morning or at night. However, because of the powerful antioxidant qualities of camellia oil, this ingredient can work well during the day to provide added UV protection in addition to your sunscreen.

Camellia oil, also known as tsubaki oil, is a lightweight, nutrient-rich oil that can be used on its own or mixed with other ingredients in skin care formulations. Its high fatty acid content and antioxidant properties make this oil an effective barrier repair ingredient for those with dry or sensitive skin.

While camellia oil on its own is generally suitable for most Baumann Skin Types, make sure that formulations that contain this ingredient and others are right for your skin type. If you don’t yet know your skin type, take a few minutes to take the quiz below to get customized skin care recommendations.

1. Baumann L. Antiaging Ingredients in Ch. 37 of Baumann's Cosmetic Dermatology Ed 3. (McGraw Hill 2022)
2. Baumann, L. Ch. Cosmeceuticals and cosmetic Ingredients (McGraw Hill 2015)
3. Huang ZR, Lin YK, Fang JY. Biological and pharmacological activities of squalene and related compounds: potential uses in cosmetic dermatology. Molecules. 2009 Jan 23;14(1):540-54.
4. Ha SY, Jung JY, Yang JK. Camellia japonica Essential Oil Inhibits α-MSH-Induced Melanin Production and Tyrosinase Activity in B16F10 Melanoma Cells. Evid Based Complement Alternat Med. 2021 Nov 16;2021:6328767.
5. Chaiyana, W., Leelapornpisid, P., Jakmunee, J., & Korsamphan, C. (2018). Antioxidant and moisturizing effect of Camellia assamica seed oil and its development into microemulsion. Cosmetics, 5(3), 40.
6. Kim, K. H., Shin, M. K., & Kim, S. H. (2021). The antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and moisturizing effects of Camellia oleifera oil and its potential applications in cosmetics. Journal of Applied Cosmetology, 73(4), 325-330.