Considering buying a red light therapy device for home? Before you buy a red light mask, a red light bed, or at-home light therapy, you need to know which one is the best to buy and how to use it. But you also need to ask yourself – "Do I really need to use red light to keep my skin younger?"

Photobiomodulation treatments are hugely popular in antiaging skin care – but I am an aging dermatologist and I won't use them myself. Why not, you might ask? Because there are downsides. Red light is a form of radiation, after all.

This article will cover the benefits and risks of red light and explain the science of what we know about red light to treat wrinkles. This blog will help you make your own informed decision about whether or not to buy a red light mask or a red light bed to use at home.

Spoiler alert – the science supports the use of red light therapy to treat wrinkles – but only IF USED PROPERLY. If used incorrectly, they can actually speed skin aging and cause hyperpigmentation.

Does red light therapy work to treat or prevent wrinkles and sagging skin? Maybe- there are some studies that suggest improvement.

Red light therapy is a form of of photobiomodulation, The light causses biologic processes in the skin. These processes may help reverse skin aging but can cause aging and hyperpigmentation if not used properly.

This blog will discuss the science of red light therapy and get into the details, but the major point of this article is that Red Light Therapy is not for everyone and should be used correctly.

However, a daily protective and reparative skin care routine is still very important!

The most proven way to improve the appearance of aged skin is by using:

• Retinoids like tretinoin and tazarotene
• Ascorbic acid
• Sunscreen

For my patients I recommend that they use a skin care routine that is right fort heir skin type because it is safer than red light and you can get the same results.

Take the16 skin type quiz to see which products are best for your skin type.

“Red light” is light in the visible spectrum with the wavelengths 620–700 nm. These waves produce the warm red color in rainbows. Red light masks, beds, and other devices used in dermatology commonly use ~633–660 nm of red light. They are sometimes paired with near‑infrared (NIR) bands which provide heat.

Red Light Therapy is a form of photobiomodulation which uses small, well-timed doses of red light to trigger beneficial signaling such as better mitochondrial function and activation of pro-repair pathways.

Does adding red light therapy to your skin care routine help make your skin stay young or look younger? Let’s examine the science, risks, and benefits to answer this question.

Red light therapy can increase collagen production, but only when specific wavelengths of light and dosages are used.

There are many studies on red light therapy, but there is disagreement on if it is better alone or combined with other kinds of light such as amber light. Most red light researchers support the use of red light to treat skin aging; however, I am skeptical.

The bottom line is – red light can make skin look smoother and increase radiance. However, in my opinion and experience as a dermatologist, forms of radiation injure the skin with long-term use.

The proper use of antiaging skin care products can do the same thing as red light therapy with fewer risks.

There are 3 issues to consider when buying a red light device for home use:

1. Which red therapy is best?

2. How to use a red light device properly?

3. Should I use red light therapy alone or combined with infrared, amber light, blue light, or red light?

Many things affect the efficacy of red light treatments. So you need to make sure before you buy one of these light devices that you choose the best one. Not all red light masks are effective. Some can be damaging to the skin.

I have looked through all of the research data and, although opinions vary, it seems safest to stick with devices that only emit red light and not blue or infrared light. (Blue light helps acne but can cause skin aging. Infrared can cause skin aging and hyperpigmentation.)

The power (joules) of the device, the wavelength used, the amount of time used, and the number of times it is used a week all affect the results and whether you get benefits or side effects.

Choose a mask that emits the correct wavelengths and right amount of joules and DOES NOT have infrared. Infrared is heat and can burn skin and cause hyperpigmentation. Infrared light can also age the skin.

Blue light, found in many of these masks, treats acne but can lead to hyperpigmentation and skin aging.

In my humble opinion—and many will not agree with me—is to choose a device that only emits red light or avoid red light devices altogether. All that having been said, if you do want a red light device, here are some that we carry for those interested -

How you use a red light therapy mask depends on the specific device, as not all masks are the same. They vary in wavelength (measured in nanometers, or nm) and energy output (measured in joules/cm²), and these differences affect how the light interacts with your skin. Follow the instructions on your device and do not use it more than the instructions say. In most cases, the red light device should not be used more often than every 72 hours.

So if you decide to use red light therapy – choose one that emits the correct wavelengths of light and the right amount of power (joules) and only use the light device as often as you are directed to. More is not better in this situation.

Wavelength determines how deeply the light penetrates. For example, 630–660 nm red light targets the skin surface, while 810–850 nm near-infrared light reaches deeper layers, like the dermis where collagen is made.

The joule dose tells you how much energy your skin receives during a session. Lower-powered masks deliver fewer joules and usually require longer or more frequent sessions. High-powered professional devices deliver more energy in less time. If you use too little, the treatment may be ineffective. If you use too much, it can trigger photoinhibition, where the benefits plateau or reverse due to excess stress signals or free radical production.

Because of these differences, always follow the manufacturer’s instructions for your specific device. More is not always better. Using the wrong wavelength or dose could reduce results — or cause irritation. In red light therapy, precision matters, so stick to the recommended schedule for safe, effective skin benefits.

Too much red light (too strong, too long, too often, or with heat) can raise reactive oxygen species (ROS) beyond the helpful range, tipping toward the side effects of irritation, inflammation, or pigmentation—especially in skin of color.

For a simple analogy, you can compare this to exercise. A moderate workout that focuses on the correct muscle groups (while using good form) will strengthen you. However, overtraining, bad form, or using the wrong exercises causes strain and injury. Red light behaves similarly at the cellular level.

How much is too much depends on the wavelength of light and amount of joules that your red light therapy emits. Most studies show that you should use the red light devices no more frequently than every 72 hours.

Do not use red light therapy more often than every 72 hours.

Red-light therapy works by stimulating the mitochondria—the “power plants” of cells—to make more energy (ATP) and release mild signals that activate healing genes. This process continues for about 72 hours after treatment as cells increase collagen production and antioxidant activity. If red light is used again too soon, the mitochondria haven’t reset, and the stimulation can backfire, slowing down results. Waiting three days between sessions lets the cell finish its repair and renewal cycle before being reactivated. That’s why most studies and experts recommend using red-light therapy about every 72 hours rather than daily for the best skin benefits.

Red light alters cell signaling and gene expression, so it has a biologic response. This response depends on how many joules you use, what wavelength, and how often. If you use the wrong parameters or use it too often, these are the side effects or downsides that can occur:

• Skin aging

• Hyperpigmentation

• Inflammation

These side effects are mainly due to heat and increased free radicals (oxidative stress).

Following the instructions and avoiding devices that use infrared (which causes heat) can help decrease these risks.

Skin of color is more susceptible to hyperpigmentation—especially when red light is combined with infrared.

When used correctly, red light therapy can improve:

• Fine lines and wrinkles
• Skin texture
• Skin radiance
• Perceived skin firmness
• Overall skin quality

Red light improves skin by increasing collagen production.

It works by stimulating the skin’s natural repair mechanisms at the cellular level. When red light in the 630–660 nm range penetrates the skin, it is absorbed by an enzyme inside the mitochondria called cytochrome c oxidase. This enzyme helps produce adenosine triphosphate (ATP) — the energy that cells use for growth and repair. With more ATP available, fibroblasts (the cells that build collagen and elastin) become more active and begin synthesizing new structural proteins.

Red light also triggers the release of nitric oxide, improving blood flow and nutrient delivery to the skin, while activating TGF-β and SMAD signaling, which directly increases type I collagen gene expression.

At the same time, red light reduces the activity of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs)—enzymes that break down old collagen—through the NRF2/HO-1 antioxidant pathway.

This dual action both stimulates collagen production and prevents its degradation.

Over several weeks, the dermal matrix becomes denser and more organized, giving the skin a smoother, firmer, and more elastic appearance. Fine lines and wrinkles soften because the new collagen fills in the gaps under the skin’s surface, restoring volume and flexibility lost with age.

The science of how red light affects the skin is fascinating. It also affects other organs like the eyes, but this article is focusing on the effects of red light on skin.

Note that the science of photobiomodulation is constantly evolving. Check Google Scholar for the latest developments.

Exposure to red light promotes the expression of transforming growth factor beta (TGF-β) in dermal fibroblasts, which subsequently increases type I collagen gene transcription and protein synthesis through the nuclear activation of SMAD2/3/4 signaling.

At the same time, red light elevates intracellular cyclic AMP (cAMP) levels, stimulating AKT phosphorylation. This activation suppresses matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) production by engaging the NRF2/HO-1 antioxidant pathway, thereby limiting collagen breakdown.

The resulting accumulation of type I collagen enhances integrin-mediated signaling, which drives keratinocyte proliferation and differentiation in the epidermis. Furthermore, AKT activation by red light supports fibroblast growth, reinforcing both collagen synthesis and collagen-dependent epidermal renewal. (16)

Red light is absorbed by enzymes in the mitochondria, especially cytochrome c oxidase (Complex IV). This helps the cell make more ATP, which is its main source of energy. It also causes the temporary release of signaling molecules like nitric oxide (NO) and small amounts of reactive oxygen species (ROS), also known as free radicals. In small amounts, these free radicals are helpful—they act as signals that can improve cell function and health. Too much red light may lead to too many free radicals, which can cause cell damage.

Red light therapy must be used in the correct dose to be effective. When applied at low to moderate levels, it supports healthy cell function by increasing energy production (ATP), releasing nitric oxide, and triggering beneficial signaling pathways. However, red light follows a biphasic dose response, also known as the Arndt-Schulz curve.

This means that after a certain point, increasing the dose no longer helps—and may actually cause harm. 

At high doses, the body may produce too many reactive oxygen species (ROS), also called free radicals.

In small amounts, ROS are useful signaling molecules to turn on rejuvenating processes, but too many can activate stress responses in cells and reduce the benefits of the therapy.

Overexposure to red light may lead to inflammation or damage instead of healing. For this reason, it’s important to follow the recommended guidelines for your red light device and avoid using it longer or more often than instructed.

One of the main reasons red light therapy is used in skincare is to increase collagen production. Collagen is the most important structural protein in the skin — it gives skin its firmness, smoothness, and strength. As we age, collagen production naturally decreases, and enzymes (MMP-1) that break it down become more active. This leads to thinner skin, fine lines, and wrinkles.

Red light therapy helps reverse this process by targeting the extracellular matrix (ECM) — the supportive framework of the skin.

Research on human skin has shown that red light can reduce levels of MMP-1, an enzyme that breaks down collagen, while increasing procollagen I, which is needed to make new collagen fibers.

These changes help protect existing collagen and promote the growth of new collagen, leading to firmer, smoother skin over time.

However, skin care ingredients such as retinoids, AHAs, exosomes, and Vitamin C can also do this without the risks that red light has.

All forms of radiation — UV radiation, especially UVA and UVB — can directly damage DNA in skin cells, leading to mutations that increase the risk of premature aging and even skin cancer. Red light can do this too if used in excess.

However, small doses of red light are believed to have a protective effect.

Red light activates the skin’s natural DNA repair pathways. Research has shown that red light increases activity of base-excision repair (BER) — a process that fixes small breaks or changes in DNA caused by oxidative stress. It upregulates repair-related genes like GADD45A and APE1, which work together to repair UV-related damage.

Keep in mind that DNA repair enzymes in skin care can also do this.

Red light affects cytokines, which are signaling molecules that control inflammation.

It also influences redox-sensitive transcription factors such as NF‑κB and AP‑1, which are involved in turning inflammatory genes on or off.

Depending on the dose and wavelength, red light exposure has been shown to lower pro-inflammatory cytokines like IL‑1β, TNF‑α, and IL‑6. It can also affect TIMP‑1 and TIMP‑2, which help regulate MMPs—the enzymes that break down collagen.

However, if used incorrectly or too often, red light can increase inflammation.

Note that there are many soothing ingredients in skin care that also target inflammation.

Red light therapy may help slow or reverse cellular senescence—a key driver of skin aging. Senescent cells stop dividing but don’t die. Instead, they become dysfunctional and begin releasing a mix of harmful chemical signals known as the senescence-associated secretory phenotype (SASP). These signals include inflammatory cytokines, enzymes that break down collagen, and other molecules that damage nearby healthy cells, accelerate aging, and weaken the skin’s structure.

In lab studies using fibroblasts aged by repeated UVA exposure, low-dose red light helped reverse these harmful effects. It reduced markers of senescence such as SA‑β‑gal and acetyl‑p53, showing a reduction of senescent cells. It also increased SIRT1, a protein linked to cell longevity. It preserved telomere length and decreased MMP‑1, which breaks down collagen.

These results suggest that red light can counteract senescence-driven skin aging.

Skin care ingredients can also decrease cellular senescence.

I’m not a big fan of red light therapy because, at the end of the day, it’s still a form of radiation. Historically, we’ve used different types of radiation to treat skin conditions—X-ray therapy was used for acne up until the 1960s, before we realized it increased the risk of skin cancer and aging. Later, blue light was used to treat acne, but further research showed that it accelerates skin aging by damaging mitochondria and increasing oxidative stress. Even infrared light, which is often marketed as gentle or healing, has been shown to contribute to skin aging over time.

For these reasons, I advise my patients to avoid unnecessary light exposure when possible. Instead, I recommend focusing on a science-backed skincare routine that’s tailored to their specific Baumann Skin Type. This personalized approach addresses skin concerns effectively and safely—without the risks that come with repeated light exposure.

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