What Do Marketing Terms on Ingredient Labels Really Mean?

With more options than ever when shopping for skin care, it can be overwhelming to sift through the array of choices and find a product that is right for your skin. To further complicate matters, the marketing terms that are often included on product labels – like “hypoallergenic,” “fragrance-free,” or “natural” – do not always mean what you might think. In fact, there are very few legal regulations when it comes to the marketing terms that brands are able to include on packaging, and there are generally no standardized definitions for what these terms mean.

The result is a sea of products with labels that make all sorts of claims, with few, if any, of those claims being backed by research or regulations. Many consumers are surprised to learn that this lack of regulation also applies to what are known as “cosmeceuticals,” which are a blend of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. Although these products claim to provide benefits beyond basic skin care, they are not classified as drugs and therefore are not held to the same testing standards as pharmaceutical products.

All this is to say that you cannot always take skin care or cosmeceutical product labels at face value. To help you separate fact from fiction when reading these labels, I’ve compiled a list of some of the most commonly used advertising claims on skin care and what they really mean (or don’t mean) so you can make an informed decision about what you’re putting on your skin.

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There is no standardized definition for “allergen-free,” nor is there required testing for companies using this term. Typically, products labeled “allergen-free” exclude common allergens listed by regulatory bodies like the European Union, but this is not required in order to be able to use this term. Some manufacturers conduct Human Repeated Insult Patch Testing (HRIPT) to check for allergic reactions, but this is not a requirement, either.

The term “hypoallergenic” is equally unregulated, allowing manufacturers to define it however they choose. Many companies conduct HRIPT or cumulative irritation testing, but the number of participants is often small (100–200 subjects), and results are not always published. In some cases, photoreactivity testing is performed, but the lack of a standardized definition means this term provides little concrete information about what is or is not included in the formulation.

“Fragrance-free” does not always mean that a product contains no fragrance-related compounds. Instead, this term typically indicates that a product does not contain fragrances for the purposes of giving the product a scent. However, fragrant ingredients may still be included as masking agents or preservatives. Similarly, “unscented” products may contain masking fragrances to neutralize unwanted odors, meaning they are not necessarily free from fragrance-related compounds, even if they do not have a noticeable smell.

The term “organic” was largely unrelated when it came to skin care products until 2005, when the USDA set specific standards for organic skincare products. Now, to be labeled “organic,” at least 95% of the ingredients must be organically sourced. Products labeled as “made with organic ingredients” must contain between 75% and 94% organic content. These guidelines are based on food standards, so they are standardized and can be relied upon for the most part.

Unlike “organic,” the term “natural” has no legal definition in skin care. Products labeled as “natural” may still contain synthetic preservatives or chemicals. “Naturally-derived” ingredients generally start as plant-based materials but undergo laboratory modifications. Similarly, “botanical” simply means that a product contains some plant-derived ingredients but does not guarantee purity or efficacy.

Non-comedogenic products are meant to prevent clogged pores, but testing methods vary. Many products are tested on the upper back rather than the face, which has different oil production levels and sensitivities. This discrepancy makes it difficult to rely on “non-comedogenic” claims for facial skin care.

“Clinically tested” can mean almost anything – from a simple 48-hour patch test to a more extensive clinical trial. There are no rules about the type of study required, the number of participants, or whether the final product or just individual ingredients were tested in order to be able to call a skin care product “clinically tested.”

“Clinically proven” carries slightly more weight but still lacks strict regulatory backing. According to advertising standards, a product must undergo at least two well-controlled clinical studies to claim it is “proven.” However, companies can manipulate wording to imply scientific rigor without revealing details about the study design.

“Dermatologist-tested” is another term that can mean many different things and does not guarantee that dermatologists were actively involved in testing. In some cases, a dermatologist simply reviews a product’s ingredients rather than testing its effectiveness. In others, formal clinical trials are performed with a dermatologist’s oversight. 

However, because there is no legal requirement or standardized definition for what “dermatologist-tested” means, it is virtually impossible for consumers to know how involved a dermatologist was in the testing of a particular product.

Unlike pharmaceutical drugs, which can make factual claims about biological effects, such as “increased collagen production,” cosmeceuticals often use softer language to imply effectiveness without making scientifically-backed statements. For example, an anti-aging product cannot claim to “boost collagen production,” but it can say that it “improves the appearance of wrinkles.”

Given the lack of regulation and standardization around most marketing terms used on skin care product labels, it can be difficult to know which have merit and which are purely for marketing purposes. Follow these general tips to help make your skin care decisions easier:

• Read ingredient lists. While these lists still can’t tell you everything, they are more accurate than marketing terms on the front of the label. The first few ingredients are found in the highest concentrations in the product, while the last ingredients are in much smaller amounts. 
• Look for peer-reviewed research. If a product claims to be “clinically proven,” check if studies are published in medical journals.
• Consider reputable brands. Larger companies often conduct more rigorous testing due to increased scrutiny.
• Know your skin type. Take the quiz below to find out which of the 16 skin types you are. Once you know this, we can help you find the best skin care products that will work for your skin.

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5. FTC Publishes Final Guides Governing Endorsements, Testimonials. http://www.ftc.gov/opa/2009/10/endortest.shtm.
6. Federal Trade Commission 16 CFR Part 255. Guides Concerning the Use of Endorsements and Testimonials in Advertising. October 15, 2009;74:198.