Octapeptide-45 in skin care

Octapeptide-45 is an advanced peptide that has gained attention in skincare due to its potent role in stimulating hyaluronic acid (HA) production. As a proprietary peptide used in advanced formulations like Alastin's HA IMMERSE Serum®, Octapeptide-45 has become an exciting ingredient in the fight against skin aging. In this blog, we’ll explore what Octapeptide-45 is, how it works, its benefits, potential side effects, and how it can be used in combination with other skincare ingredients.

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Octapeptide-45 is a short-chain amino acid sequence, with a molecular weight of approximately 1,000 Daltons (Da), that primarily functions to stimulate the body’s production of hyaluronic acid, particularly high molecular weight (HMW) HA. Hyaluronic acid is a key substance in skin health, contributing to hydration, elasticity, and a youthful appearance. Unlike other peptides, Octapeptide-45 specifically targets and upregulates Hyaluronan Synthase-2 (HAS2) in dermal fibroblasts, which results in the production of HA molecules around 2 MegaDaltons (MDa) in size. These large HA molecules are known for their stability and resistance to enzymatic degradation, prolonging their effects in the skin.

Octapeptide-45 works by enhancing the skin’s ability to produce its own high molecular weight hyaluronic acid. It stimulates dermal fibroblasts, the cells responsible for creating HA, by upregulating the HAS2 enzyme. The result is the generation of large HA molecules that offer superior hydration and skin regeneration. These large HA molecules are more resilient and less likely to break down, which ensures prolonged hydration and anti-aging effects. Additionally, this mechanism creates an anti-inflammatory environment in the skin, reducing redness and irritation, making Octapeptide-45 particularly beneficial for those with sensitive skin or conditions like rosacea.

Octapeptide-45’s ability to increase hyaluronic acid in the skin leads to several significant improvements in skin appearance:

• Reduction in Redness: Large MW HA helps reduce inflammation by blocking inflammatory pathways
• Enhanced Radiance: Increased hydration makes the skin appear more luminous and vibrant.
• Plumper-Looking Skin: By boosting the skin’s water-retention abilities, it appears fuller, tighter, and firmer
• Improved Elasticity: The additional HA supports the skin's structural integrity, making it more resilient and firm.
• Reduction in Fine Lines and Wrinkles: Hydrated skin naturally plumps out fine lines, reducing their appearance.
• Smoother Skin Texture: The boost in moisture and HA helps to create a more even, smoother-looking complexion.
• Softness : Skin feels softer to the touch, thanks to the enhanced hydration.

These benefits make Octapeptide-45 a standout ingredient in anti-aging formulations.

Some peptides do nto work well when combined with other ingredients. Octapeptide-45 can safely be used alongside other popular skincare ingredients such as retinol and hydroquinone. In fact, combining Octapeptide-45 with these active ingredients can enhance the overall benefits of a skincare routine. 

Retinol, for instance, promotes skin cell turnover, while hydroquinone helps to even out skin tone. Octapeptide-45 supports these actions by ensuring the skin stays hydrated and calm, reducing the potential for irritation that can sometimes occur with these potent ingredients.

Octapeptide-45 offers a unique approach to antiaging skin care by increasing the skin's hyaluronic acid levels, particularly high molecular weight HA. Its benefits of skin hydration, firming, and a reduction in fine lines make it very popular for use in many age groups. It can be used when you are as young as 20 because it does not cause sensitivity and it not an exfoliant.  With minimal side effects, it’s a safe and powerful addition to any skincare routine, and its compatibility with other active ingredients like retinol and hydroquinone makes it versatile for a variety of skin concerns.

Stay tuned by subscribing to our newsletter  where we share breakthroughs in skincare research. That way you can stay informed as the use of Octapeptide-45 continues to evolve. If you have questions, come join the discussion on Reddit at r/skintypesolutions.

1. Baumann L. Antiaging Ingredients in Ch. 37 of Baumann's Cosmetic Dermatology Ed 3. (McGraw Hill 2022)
2. Baumann, L. Ch. Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients (McGraw Hill 2015)
3. Widgerow, A. D., Ziegler, M. E., Garruto, J. A., Mraz Robinson, D., Palm, M. D., Vega, J. H., & Bell, M. (2022). Designing topical hyaluronic acid technology—Size does matter…. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 21(7), 2865-2870.
4. Robinson, D. M., Vega, J., Palm, M. D., Bell, M., Widgerow, A. D., & Giannini, A. (2022). Multicenter evaluation of a topical hyaluronic acid serum. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 21(9), 3848-3858.