I’m a dermatologist with very allergic skin and rosacea, so finding a sunscreen that gives broad-spectrum protection without stinging, burning, or redness has always been a challenge for me. My Baumann Skin Type® is a DSNW and is one of the hardest types to match with sunscreens that do not irritate the skin. That’s why I was so intrigued by bemotrizinol, a new sunscreen ingredient that may get FDA approval next year. 

Bemotrizinol (BEMT) has been sold for years in Europe, Japan, and Australia, but up until October 2025 it has not been FDA approved in the USA. Many of my patients are so eager to try it that they bring it home from their travels abroad. When I was in Italy, I tested the Eucerin version containing bemotrizinol myself to see if it would irritate my skin — and it didn’t. No burning, no redness, no flare-ups. I was thrilled to finally find a chemical sunscreen filter that feels comfortable on rosacea-prone, allergic skin while still offering strong UVA and UVB protection.

In this post, I’ll explain what bemotrizinol is, its benefits and downsides, what makes it different from older chemical filters, and why so many dermatologists — including myself — are hoping it will finally become available in the U.S.

Bemotrizinol, also referred to by its chemical name bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (BEMT), is an organic (chemical) UV filter that absorbs both UVB and UVA radiation. Specifically, its absorption covers approximately 280 to 380 nm, meaning it blocks UVB (which causes sunburn and DNA damage) and a broad swath of UVA2 (which drives photoaging and pigmentation). In many formulations abroad, bemotrizinol is paired with other filters (like Tinosorb M or inert mineral filters) to push toward full UVA1 protection too.

In many parts of the world, bemotrizinol is marketed under the trade name Tinosorb S, or Parsol Shield. 

The INCI name is bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine which is abbreviated as BEMT.

BEMT is not yet approved for over-the-counter (OTC) use in the U.S., it is currently under review in the FDA’s sunscreen monograph process, making it the first new UV sunscreen filter considered for approval by the FDA in over two decades.

The reason people are excited about BEMT is it may be safer and more effective than other sunscreen options. It is often combined with other sunscreen ingredients and antioxidants for maximum sun protection.

I tried it and it did not feel thick or greasy on my skin and was noncomedogenic. (I tried the Eucerin version sold  in Italy). It did not give a white cast, did not sting, and did not cause a rosacea flare. Although I still prefer the Pavise SPF because it feels so light on my skin, this may be a cheaper alternative when it comes to the US.

One of the strongest selling points of bemotrizinol is its photostability. Photostability means a UV filter resists chemical degradation when exposed to sunlight. Many older organic filters (such as avobenzone) are photolabile — they break down under UV, losing efficacy and in some cases generating reactive free radicals or reactive oxygen species (ROS). These radicals can contribute to oxidative stress, damage lipids and collagen, or even trigger photoallergic reactions in susceptible individuals.

Bemotrizinol, on the other hand, maintains its molecular integrity under UV exposure, minimizing the generation of secondary radicals. Because it remains stable, it helps maintain a steady level of UV protection throughout the day and protects other filters in the formulation from degrading.

Systemic absorption into the bloodstream of chemical sunscreen filters is one of the biggest concerns for US regulatory approval today. Sunscreen can actually show up in your urine!. That’s why clinical pharmacokinetic data are so crucial to get new sunscreens approved.

I found one publication in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology that looked at this. (3)

A Maximum Usage Trial was conducted to examine absorption of 6 % bemotrizinol in sunscreen formulations under high-use conditions. In this study:
162 volunteers applied the sunscreen four times daily for four days.
Out of 3,722 plasma samples, only 31.4% had quantifiable concentrations (≥ 0.1 ng/mL).
Five subjects (3.1%) had no detectable levels at all.
Geometric mean Cmax values remained below the FDA’s threshold of 0.5 ng/mL.
No evidence of steady accumulation, and bioavailability differences between formulations were minimal.
These findings strongly suggest very low bioavailability of bemotrizinol, even under maximum usage. 

Compared to filters like oxybenzone or avobenzone, which are frequently detected in urine or blood in population studies, bemotrizinol’s systemic exposure is nearly negligible.
This low absorption is a key factor in its potential FDA approval as a Generally Recognized As Safe and Effective (GRASE) UV filter.

“Broad-spectrum” means a sunscreen filters both UVB and UVA, protecting against sunburn and deeper photodamage.

 Bemotrizinol's absorption window (≈ 280–380 nm) spans UVB and much of UVA (primarily UVA2). 

While it does not fully cover UVA1 (above ~380 nm), when combined with complementary filters or mineral blockers, formulators can approach complete protection across the 280–400 nm range. In practice, bemotrizinol significantly bolsters UVA efficacy in a formula, which is a major advantage over many U.S. sunscreens that lean heavily on UVB protection.

Despite these advantages, bemotrizinol is not without challenges and caveats. Even with robust pharmacokinetic and toxicology data, bemotrizinol has not yet secured FDA approval. 

Formulation complexity is a real issue (discussed further below). Because bemotrizinol is oil-soluble, formulators must carefully balance emulsifiers, lipid systems, and dispersion stability. Improper formulation can lead to crystallization, separation, or poor texture.

 Bemotrizino's oil solubility demands careful emulsification. Cosmetic chemists must find the right combination of emulsifiers, co-solvents, and lipid phases to evenly disperse BEMT without crystallization or phase separation. Stability over time and under temperature fluctuations is critical.

Recent advances have focused on nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) or nanoemulsions to overcome these hurdles. 

Optimizing lipid blend ratios, particle size distributions, and crystallinity can be delicate.  Incorporating antioxidants like tocopheryl acetate can improve long-term oxidative stability.

While bemotrizinol offers excellent performance, getting it to behave beautifully in a sunscreen formula requires expertise and innovation.

While environmental data are better than many older filters, ecotoxicology studies are still emerging. Early data suggest lower aquatic toxicity than oxybenzone or octinoxate, but additional studies (especially on reefs and coral ecosystems) are ongoing.

Bemotrizinol is the first new U.S. UV filter under review in over 24 years. To gain entry into the OTC sunscreen monograph, it must be deemed GRASE (Generally Recognized As Safe and Effective). That requires robust data on:

• Skin penetration (in vitro studies showing low transdermal absorption)
• Pharmacokinetics (like the MUsT trial described above)
• Toxicology, mutagenicity, endocrine disruption assessments
• Safety margin calculations across demographic groups

Because bemotrizinol has already a long safety track record internationally, combined with strong new data on low systemic absorption, many dermatologists view it as the most promising candidate to finally modernize U.S. sunscreen chemistry. If approved, it could significantly elevate UVA protection, reduce skin irritation, and bring U.S. formulas closer to the sophistication seen in Europe and Asia.

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1. Baumann L. Sunscreens in Ch. 46 of Baumann's Cosmetic Dermatology Ed 3. (McGraw Hill 2022)
2. Baumann, L. Ch. Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients (McGraw Hill 2015)
3. D'Ruiz, C. D. (2024). 271 Pivotal maximum usage trial (MUsT) of bemotrizinol 6% in sunscreens shows low bioavailability. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 144(8), S47.
4. Sarpietro, M. G., Santonocito, D., Castelli, F., Russo, S., Puglia, C., & Montenegro, L. (2024). Bemotrizinol-loaded nanostructured lipid carriers for the development of sunscreen emulsions.
5. Jana, K., & Mahanti, B. Challenges of HPLC Method Development and Validation for the Assay of Bemotrizinol from Complex Matrix in Cosmeceutical Preparation.