You cannot always tell if a moisturizer will repair the skin barrier just by reading the ingredient list. A well-formulated barrier-repair moisturizer should contain ceramides, fatty acids and cholesterol in an organized lipid structure that resembles the lipids naturally found in the skin barrier.

One way we evaluate this lipid organization is with cross-polarized microscopy. When the lipids are properly organized into lamellar structures, they form a characteristic Maltese cross pattern under the microscope. This pattern is seen in Medature and Zerafite barrier-repair moisturizers and is one reason I recommend these moisturizers for Dry Baumann Skin Types.

You should also notice a difference in how your skin feels. After using a good barrier-repair moisturizer consistently for about 4–6 days, your skin should begin to feel more hydrated, smoother and less rough. Continued use helps support the impaired skin barrier and decrease water loss from dry skin.

The skin barrier contains three important types of physiologic lipids: ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol. Research has shown that all three need to be present in the proper proportions for normal skin-barrier repair. Studies of damaged skin have found that an approximately 1:1:1 ratio of ceramides, fatty acids and cholesterol supports barrier recovery.

The balance between these lipids is important. An unbalanced mixture, such as adding ceramides without enough cholesterol and fatty acids, can actually delay barrier recovery rather than improve it. This means that a product marketed as a “ceramide cream” is not automatically a good barrier-repair moisturizer. If it does not contain the other important barrier lipids in the proper proportions, it may not be the best choice for dry DRPW skin.

The type of fatty acid matters too. Stearic acid is a long-chain fatty acid and is one of the best choices for supporting the lipid structure of the skin barrier. You may see Stearic Acid itself on the ingredient label, or stearic-acid-related ingredients such as Glyceryl Stearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate and Stearyl Alcohol. These types of ingredients are found in barrier-repair moisturizers such as Zerafite and Medature.

This is why I look for more than just the word “ceramide” on a moisturizer label. For dry DRPW skin, I prefer barrier-repair moisturizers formulated with ceramides, fatty acids and cholesterol in the proper ratio, with well-chosen fatty acids such as stearic acid. More ceramides are not necessarily better. The balance, type and organization of the lipids are what determine whether a moisturizer can effectively support skin-barrier repair.

DRPW skin is Dry, so avoid moisturizers that contain ingredients that can strip lipids, increase dryness or further impair the skin barrier. Examples include denatured alcohol (Alcohol Denat.), SD alcohol and salicylic acid. Moisturizers containing high concentrations of exfoliating alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) may also be too drying when used every day, especially when you are already using a retinoid or other anti-aging treatments.

Do not confuse these drying alcohols with fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols such as cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are very different from denatured alcohol. They are emollient ingredients that can help soften and support dry skin and are appropriate for DRPW moisturizers.

Salicylic acid can be particularly drying because it is keratolytic and helps remove oil and dead skin cells. Although salicylic acid can be useful for oily and acne-prone Baumann Skin Types, it is usually unnecessary in a daily moisturizer for DRPW skin.

Because DRPW skin is also Pigmented, I recommend avoiding moisturizer ingredients that can increase photosensitivity or cause phototoxic reactions that may contribute to inflammation and hyperpigmentation. Examples include certain citrus oils and extracts that contain photosensitizing furocoumarins, particularly bergamot, lime and bitter orange. Not every citrus-derived ingredient is phototoxic, so the specific extract and how it is processed matter.

This is one reason you should take the Baumann Skin Type Quiz and follow the specific moisturizer recommendations personalized for your skin type. Your recommendations take into account not only your four-letter Baumann Skin Type, but also factors such as your level of sun exposure, skincare habits and other lifestyle factors that can affect which moisturizer ingredients are best for your skin.

Apply your treatment serums before your moisturizer. This allows active ingredients such as skin lighteners, antioxidants and anti-aging ingredients to reach the skin first.

Apply your moisturizer next. Moisturizers hydrate the stratum corneum and reduce water evaporation, creating an occlusive environment that can help increase penetration of the active ingredients applied underneath.

For DRPW skin, the order is simple: treatment serum first, moisturizer second.