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A common misconception about acne is that it only affects teenagers. While it is true that teens tend to be more prone to acne due to rapid changes in hormones during puberty, many adults also struggle with this common skin condition. In fact, one study(4) found that an astounding 54% of women and 40% of men over the age of 25 have acne.
For women who wear makeup, acne can be even more of a challenge to treat and prevent, as makeup can contribute to acne in some cases. Before you give up makeup altogether, however, take a look at this guide explaining just how makeup can affect acne and what you can do to minimize breakouts while still wearing makeup.
Before we get started - we're going to talk a lot about skin sensitivities and types in this blog, so make sure to find your skin type here!
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Some ingredients in makeup can cause a type of acne called acne cosmetica.
Look for non-comedogenic ingredients in makeup to prevent breakouts.
Use an acne-fighting skincare regimen designed for your skin type to treat and prevent breakouts.
There are three main causes of acne :
Excessive sebum (oil) production
Clogged pores
Overgrowth of acne-causing bacteria
When too much oil is produced by sebaceous glands in the skin, they can cause dead skin cells to become stuck together and clog pores. Clogged pores then create an environment where acne-causing bacteria called Cutibacterium acnes (formerly called Propionibacterium acnes) can thrive and overgrow. This results in an inflammatory cascade that leads to the redness, pus, and sometimes discomfort that is characteristic of an acne breakout.
It is important to note, however, that you do not have to have oily skin to get acne. People with dry skin types can also have problems with acne, as dry skin often has trouble desquamating – or shedding dead skin cells – properly. This can also lead to clogged pores and an overgrowth of C. acnes bacteria.
So how does makeup factor into the acne equation? There is a specific type of acne called acne cosmetica that happens when comedogenic ingredients commonly found in makeup, such as coconut oil or lanolin, clog your pores. Acne cosmetica differs from acne vulgaris in that it is distinctly caused by pore-clogging ingredients in cosmetic products applied to the skin. Thus, acne cosmetica should clear up once you stop using the product or products that are causing it, and allow your acne 8 weeks to complete its natural cycle. Of course, using a custom skin care routine is the best way to get good results quickly.
Acne cosmetica typically results in small, raised bumps on your skin that can be red, white, or flesh-colored. These can be pimples, whiteheads, or blackheads, and most commonly occur on the cheeks and forehead.
When choosing the best makeup for acne-prone skin, look for ingredients that are non-comedogenic (meaning they won’t clog pores) and avoid ingredients like coconut oil that are known to clog pores. Some foundations for acne-prone skin also contain salicylic acid, which can help to keep pores clean and reduce inflammation.
Here are some of my favorite makeup brands for acne-prone skin include:
As noted above, you want to avoid makeup ingredients that are known to clog pores and can therefore cause acne. Some of the most common pore-clogging ingredients found in makeup include:
Beeswax
Cocoa butter
Coconut oil
Isopropyl myristate
Isopropyl isostearate
Myristyl lactate
Red dyes
Even if your skin is prone to acne, there are some things you can do to help minimize and even prevent those breakouts without giving up makeup.
Yes, you can wear makeup even if you are prone to breakouts. The key is to choose makeup for acne-prone skin that does not contain pore-clogging ingredients and that is a match for your skin type. You should also pair your makeup routine with an acne-fighting skincare regimen that includes products specifically formulated for your skin type to get rid of breakouts without worsening other skin problems like dryness or flaking.
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Look for a gentle makeup remover that does not contain pore-clogging ingredients and that will not over-dry your skin. Some products like ClarityRx Take It Off Gentle Makeup Remover even contain anti-inflammatory ingredients like chamomile to help soothe inflamed, irritated skin while it gently removes makeup.
It’s not bad to cover pimples with makeup, but I recommend that my patients use a color-correcting concealer that contains salicylic acid to help reduce redness while also keeping the area clean. If you are going to apply makeup over a pimple, do not pop it first or pick the scab off, as this can cause infection, slow the healing process, and may result in a scar.
If you have acne cosmetica, which is directly caused by pore-clogging ingredients in cosmetic products, your skin will likely clear once you stop using those products. If you have acne-prone skin, it is a good idea to give your skin a break from makeup at least 1 or 2 days per week.
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See my routineThis article is for education and is not medical advice. It does not create a doctor-patient relationship. See a board-certified dermatologist for a diagnosis.
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Dr. Leslie Baumann, MD, FAAD
Board-certified dermatologist, author and researcher, and creator of the Baumann Skin Type System. A former professor at the University of Miami Miller School of Medicine, where she founded the Cosmetic Dermatology Center in 1997. Author of the New York Times bestseller The Skin Type Solution, Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice, and Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients.