Ferments and Fermentation in Skincare
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Temps de lecture 11 min
Fermented ingredients are trending in skincare, but how much do we really know about their benefits and efficacy? This article will explore the science behind ferments, their potential benefits, side effects, and the different types used in popular skincare products like those from SkinMedica and Revision Skincare. We'll also delve into their origins, how they're made, and examine research studies that provide insight into their effectiveness.
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Table of contents
What Are Ferments? Benefits of Fermentation Enhanced Absorption Increased Efficacy Microbiome Balance Side Effects and Downsides Types of Ferments Alteromonas Ferment Extract Bacillus Lysate Bifida Ferment Lysate Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate Kombucha Ferment Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract Saccharide Isomerase Vibrio Alginolyticus Ferment Filtrate Where do Ferments Come From? Research Studies on Ferments References
Hottest skin care trend today
Little data to back up claims
Ferments have interesting benefits
Each type has different benefits
What Are Ferments?
Fermentation is a metabolic process where microorganisms such as bacteria, yeast, and fungi break down complex organic compounds, such as carbohydrates, into simpler substances like acids, gases, and alcohol. In skincare, fermentation often enhances the bioavailability of ingredients, making them more potent and easily absorbed by the skin. Through this process, the size of molecules is reduced, allowing active ingredients to penetrate deeper into the skin.
Wondering if these are right for your skin? Find out which of the 16 skin types you are and we can give you personalized advice.
Benefits of Fermentation
The use of ferments in skincare is inspired by traditional methods, but modern science has taken it to new heights by isolating specific strains of microorganisms to yield targeted skincare benefits. There is not a lot of convincing research yet, but these are the purported benefits of using fermented ingredients in skincare.
Enhanced Absorption
Fermentation breaks down larger molecules into smaller, more easily absorbed particles, increasing the potency of active ingredients such as vitamins, amino acids, and antioxidants.
Increased Efficacy
Fermented ingredients can increase the concentration of active compounds, such as peptides and enzymes, enhancing the effectiveness of products.
Microbiome Balance
Some fermented ingredients, like probiotics, can help balance the skin's microbiome, supporting the growth of beneficial bacteria while minimizing harmful bacteria.
Side Effects and Downsides
While ferments offer many benefits, they are not without potential side effects. Fermented ingredients may cause irritation in sensitive skin types, especially if the fermentation process increases the acidity of the product. Additionally, there is limited data on the long-term efficacy of fermented ingredients.
Types of Ferments
There are many types of ferments. This article will focus on the most popular ferments used in skin care products today.
Alteromonas Ferment Extract
This ferment is derived from Alteromonas macleodii, a marine bacterium. Alteromonas ferment extract is a key anti-aging and anti-pollution ingredient. Rich in polysaccharides, it chelates heavy metals like cadmium and lead, offering skin protection against pollution. It has been shown to increase collagen production by up to 67% in fibroblast cell cultures. Its high molecular weight polysaccharides also enhance skin hydration by stimulating hyaluronic acid production and improving skin elasticity.
Bacillus Lysate
Source: Derived from the Bacillus species of bacteria, this ferment is obtained through the fermentation of Bacillus strains isolated from various environments, including thermal springs.
Benefits: Bacillus Lysate is gaining attention for its potential anti-aging benefits. It has been shown to reduce wrinkle depth by increasing collagen production. It works by enhancing cellular repair mechanisms and reducing inflammation. Research also highlights its role in increasing the skin’s antioxidant capacity, reducing free radicals and oxidative damage.
Bifida Ferment Lysate
Source : This lysate is derived from the fermentation of Bifida bacteria, a probiotic commonly found in the gut.
Benefits : It is known to strengthen the skin's natural barrier, making it more resistant to environmental stressors. Additionally, it has anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for sensitive or compromised skin. Found in Lancôme's Advanced Génifique
Chlorella Vulgaris/lupinus Albus Protein Ferment
Chlorella Vulgaris/Lupinus Albus Protein Ferment contains antioxidants like chlorophyll, beta-carotene, and lutein, which protect the skin from oxidative damage and premature aging by neutralizing harmful free radicals.
The ferment has anti-inflammatory properties derived from its peptides and proteins, which help calm redness and soothe irritated or sensitive skin.
Additionally, the ferment supports collagen production through lupin-derived peptides, contributing to improved skin firmness and elasticity. It enhances hydration by strengthening the skin’s barrier, reducing moisture loss, and helping the skin maintain its suppleness.
Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate
Galactomyces is a type of yeast used in the fermentation process. This ingredient is used in SK-II’s Treatment Essence.
Known for its brightening and hydrating properties, Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate improves skin texture and radiance. The fermentation process produces peptides, amino acids, and vitamins, which contribute to its anti-aging effects.
Kombucha Ferment
Derived from tea fermented by Saccharomyces cerevisiae and Acetobacter, Kombucha has gained much popularity. This ferment is rich in probiotics, antioxidants, and vitamins. It helps improve skin firmness and hydration while balancing the skin's microbiome. The fermentation process increases the bioavailability of polyphenols, making them more effective at protecting the skin from oxidative stress and improving skin tone. It's a popular ingredient that claims to soothe and revitalize skin.
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Fermented using Leuconostoc, a type of lactic acid bacteria, and radish root. Known for its natural preservative properties, this ferment filtrate is commonly used as a safe alternative to synthetic preservatives in skincare. It also has mild moisturizing properties and can help balance the skin’s microbiome, promoting the growth of beneficial bacteria while preventing harmful bacteria from thriving. Its antimicrobial properties make it especially useful in products designed for acne-prone skin.
Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract
Derived from marine bacterium Pseudoalteromonas. This ferment extract contains proteins and polysaccharides that offer moisture retention and skin repair benefits. It has been shown to stimulate collagen production, improving skin texture. It also has anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for sensitive or damaged skin. Its ability to protect against environmental stressors like UV damage and pollution further enhances its role in skincare formulations.
Saccharide Isomerase
Produced through the fermentation of Streptococcus pyogenes. Saccharide Isomerase acts as a humectant, deeply hydrating the skin by converting glucose to fructose. It enhances moisture retention, softens skin texture, and repairs the skin barrier. It also reduces irritation and supports anti-aging by promoting skin elasticity and plumpness while fighting free radical damage.
Thermus Thermophillus Ferment
Thermus thermophillus ferment is an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory ingredient derived from a marine bacterium. It reduces inflammation by suppressing NF-κB , a transcription factor that controls pro-inflammatory cytokines like TNF-α and IL-6 , which helps calm and soothe the skin. Additionally, it acts as a humectant , attracting moisture and preventing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) , thereby improving skin hydration. By reducing oxidative stress and inflammation, it supports anti-aging efforts by preventing damage and maintaining skin elasticity. In skincare, it calms irritation, enhances hydration, and has anti-aging effects. It is found in the skin care products shown below.
Vibrio Alginolyticus Ferment Filtrate
Source: This ferment is derived from a marine bacterium found in deep-sea waters. It's often used for its ability to provide rapid hydration and strengthen the skin's barrier.
Benefits: Clinical studies suggest that Vibrio Alginolyticus Ferment Filtrate may increase skin hydration, improve firmness, and promote a lifting effect. One study found a visible reduction in wrinkle depth after 30 minutes of application. It is also known to stimulate sirtuin-3, a protein linked to cellular energy production and longevity, thereby improving the skin’s resilience against oxidative stress.
Where do Ferments Come From?
Ferments are derived from various sources, including bacteria, fungi, and yeast. Marine-derived ferments, in particular, are a growing area of interest in the skincare industry. During the 2010 Malaspina Expedition, scientists collected marine samples from five continents and isolated over 120 previously unknown bacterial strains. These strains are studied for their potential anti-aging and skin-repairing properties. For instance, one bacterium collected near Madagascar was fermented to produce a Bacillus Ferment that has been shown to improve skin texture, increase cellular energy, and reduce the appearance of wrinkles.
Research Studies on Ferments
There is a paicity of data on ferments. Most studies are computer generated analysis of the possible mechanisms of action that th eferments might have based on their components and strucure. In most cases, studies of final formulations on human skin have not been done. This is some of what we k now.
Several studies have looked at the effects of Bacillus Lysate on the skin. (3) One study showed that it can upregulate the sirtuin-3 gene, enhancing ATP production and reducing oxidative stress by 4%. Another in vivo study found a 13% reduction in wrinkle depth just 30 minutes after application, highlighting the potential for immediate visible improvements. However, it’s essential to note that while these early results are promising, more extensive clinical trials are needed to fully validate the efficacy of fermented ingredients.
Ferments offer intriguing potential in the world of skincare, but much remains to be learned about their long-term efficacy and safety. With ongoing research and development, we may soon better understand how these biologically active compounds interact with the skin to provide the anti-aging and healing benefits they promise. In the meantime, consumers should approach fermented ingredients with both interest and caution, always keeping their individual skin type and sensitivities in mind.
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Dr. Leslie Baumann MD, FAAD
What do ferments do in skin care?
There are many types of ferments and the benefits depend on their source. Benefits may include antiaging, suppression of inflammation, effects on the microbiome, and moisturization.
What are the benefits of using fermented ingredients in skincare?
Fermented ingredients can enhance the bioavailability of active compounds, making them easier to absorb by the skin. This process often increases the potency of vitamins, amino acids, and antioxidants, providing better hydration, anti-aging effects, and skin barrier support. Fermentation also helps break down large molecules, improving ingredient penetration.
Are fermented skincare products safe for sensitive skin?
While many fermented ingredients can be soothing and hydrating, individuals with sensitive or reactive skin should be cautious. Some users report irritation, especially when using products containing multiple ferments or acids. It’s best to patch test and introduce fermented products gradually into your routine.
Can fermented ingredients cause fungal acne?
There's some concern that fermented ingredients, especially those with yeast or sugar, might exacerbate fungal acne. This is because certain fermented substances may theoretically feed yeast. However, this risk varies by individual and the type of ferment used. If you have acne that does not clear with the usual therapies, discuss with your dermatologist. They can do a culture to see if a fungus or yeast is the culprit.
How do First Treatment Essences (FTEs) work?
FTEs are watery, fermented skincare products designed to be the first step after cleansing. They are often packed with ferments like Galactomyces or Saccharomyces, which can soften, brighten, and hydrate the skin. Users typically apply FTEs to prep the skin for better absorption of subsequent products. They work the same way as the ferments discussed in this article.
Are ferments better than non-fermented ingredients?
It depends. Fermentation can enhance the efficacy of some ingredients by breaking them down into more active or potent forms. However, not all ingredients benefit from fermentation, and in some cases, fermentation may reduce their effectiveness. It’s important to evaluate the specific product and match it to your Baumann Skin Type.
Best References and Scientific Publications on Ferments and Fermentation in Skin Care:
- Baumann L. Antiaging Ingredients in Ch. 37 of Baumann's Cosmetic Dermatology Ed 3. (McGraw Hill 2022)
- Baumann, L. Ch. Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients (McGraw Hill 2015)
- Marine Derived Ingredients, Malaspina Circumnavigation Expedition, Aston Chemicals. Available at: https://www.aston-chemicals.com/assets/Publications/Publication%20-%20Aston%20-%20Anti-ageing%20Actives.pdf
- Mahmud MR, Akter S, Tamanna SK, Mazumder L, Esti IZ, Banerjee S, Akter S, Hasan MR, Acharjee M, Hossain MS, Pirttilä AM. Impact of gut microbiome on skin health: gut-skin axis observed through the lenses of therapeutics and skin diseases. Gut Microbes. 2022 Jan-Dec;14(1):2096995.
- Sinha S, Lin G, Ferenczi K. The skin microbiome and the gut-skin axis. Clin Dermatol. 2021 Sep-Oct;39(5):829-839. doi: 10.1016/j.clindermatol.2021.08.021. Epub 2021 Sep 3.
- Gao T, Wang X, Li Y, Ren F. The Role of Probiotics in Skin Health and Related Gut-Skin Axis: A Review. Nutrients. 2023 Jul 13;15(14):3123.
- Miyazaki K, Masuoka N, Kano M, Iizuka R. Bifidobacterium fermented milk and galacto-oligosaccharides lead to improved skin health by decreasing phenols production by gut microbiota. Benef Microbes. 2014 Jun 1;5(2):121-8.
- Shen Q, Zhang B, Xu R, Wang Y, Ding X, Li P. Antioxidant activity in vitro of the selenium-contained protein from the Se-enriched Bifidobacterium animalis 01. Anaerobe. 2010 Aug;16(4):380-6.
- Peran L, Camuesco D, Comalada M, Nieto A, Concha A, Adrio JL, Olivares M, Xaus J, Zarzuelo A, Galvez J. Lactobacillus fermentum, a probiotic capable to release glutathione, prevents colonic inflammation in the TNBS model of rat colitis. Int J Colorectal Dis. 2006 Dec;21(8):737-46.
- Kodali VP, Sen R. Antioxidant and free radical scavenging activities of an exopolysaccharide from a probiotic bacterium. Biotechnol J. 2008 Feb;3(2):245-51.
- Roudsari MR, Karimi R, Sohrabvandi S, Mortazavian AM. Health effects of probiotics on the skin. Crit Rev Food Sci Nutr. 2015;55(9):1219-40.
- Ashoori Y, Mohkam M, Heidari R, Abootalebi SN, Mousavi SM, Hashemi SA, Golkar N, Gholami A. Development and In Vivo Characterization of Probiotic Lysate-Treated Chitosan Nanogel as a Novel Biocompatible Formulation for Wound Healing. Biomed Res Int. 2020 Dec 28;2020:8868618.
- Simmering R, Breves R. Prä- und probiotische Kosmetik [Pre- and probiotic cosmetics]. Hautarzt. 2009 Oct;60(10):809-14.
- Bockmuhl D. Prebiotic cosmetics: an alternative to antibacterial products. IFSSC Mag. 2006;9:1-5.
- Lew LC, Liong MT. Bioactives from probiotics for dermal health: functions and benefits. J Appl Microbiol. 2013 May;114(5):1241-53.
- Gueniche A. Use of Probiotic Microorganisms to Limit Skin Irritation. US Patent, US20100226892. 2010.
- Miyazaki K, Hanamizu T, Iizuka R, Chiba K. Bifidobacterium-fermented soy milk extract stimulates hyaluronic acid production in human skin cells and hairless mouse skin. Skin Pharmacol Appl Skin Physiol. 2003 Mar-Apr;16(2):108-16.
- Miyazaki K, Hanamizu T, Sone T, Chiba K, Kinoshita T, Yoshikawa S. Topical application of Bifidobacterium-fermented soy milk extract containing genistein and daidzein improves rheological and physiological properties of skin. J Cosmet Sci. 2004 Sep-Oct;55(5):473-9.
- Xie A, Chen A, Chen Y, Luo Z, Jiang S, Chen D, Yu R. Lactobacillus for the treatment and prevention of atopic dermatitis: Clinical and experimental evidence. Front Cell Infect Microbiol. 2023 Feb 16;13:1137275.
- Delavie Sciences. Skincare Science: Aeonia. Skincare from the Stars. https://www.delaviesciences.com/pages/aeonia . Accessed March 28, 2024.
- Stern C. One year later: CosmeticsDesign follows up with Delavie Science & the space age SPF booster. CosmeticsDesign USA. September 7, 2023. https://www.cosmeticsdesign.com/Article/2023/09/07/q-a-prebiotic-bacillus-lysate-s-deep-impact-on-cosmetic-industry . Accessed March 23, 2024.
Beyond Cultures: Exploring the Fermented Frontier by KRUPA KOESTLINE https://tks-hpc.h5mag.com/hpc_today_4_2024/biofermentation_-_beyond_cultures_exploring_the_fermented_frontier
Majchrzak, W., Motyl, I., & Śmigielski, K. (2022). Biological and cosmetical importance of fermented raw materials: an overview. Molecules, 27(15), 4845.
Gedik, G. (2023). Formulation of an Anti-aging cream containing Alteromonas ferment extract and evaluation of the effect on collagen concentration. J. Res. Pharm, 27, 903-912.
