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Camellia japonica seed oil

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil

Escrito por: Dr. Leslie Baumann

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Tempo de leitura 6 min

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, also known as Tsubaki oil, is derived from the seeds of the Camellia japonica plant, an evergreen tree native to Japan, South Korea, and China. This plant-derived oil is a favorite in Korean antiaging skin care products. Rich in antioxidants, fatty acids, and vitamins, it provides anti-aging properties, protects the skin from pollution, and preserves skin elasticity. Camellia Japonica Seed Oil is widely used in anti-aging serums and creams for sensitive skin, where it helps to moisturize, reduce inflammation, and shield the skin from environmental damage.

Protects skin from free radicals and pollution

Moisturizing

Rich in oleic acid

Noncomedogenic and safe for sensitive skin

What is camellia japonica seed oil

What is Camellia Japonica Seed Oil?

Camellia Japonica, also known as Tsubaki oil, is derived from the seeds of the Camellia japonica plant, an evergreen tree native to East Asia, particularly Japan, South Korea, and China. This oil has been used traditionally in East Asia for its medicinal and cosmetic benefits, notably to enhance skin health and elasticity.

Products with Camellia Japonica Seed Oil

Skin Care Products

Found in anti-aging and creams to protect skin from pollution, these products contain Tsubaki oil:


Active Compounds

  • Camellia Japonica Seed Oil is rich in several bioactive compounds, each contributing to its beneficial effects on the skin:
    Oleic Acid: Deeply moisturizes and hydrates the skin, enhancing its smoothness and reducing dryness.
  • Polyphenols: Powerful antioxidants that protect the skin from free radical damage and environmental stressors.
  • Vitamins A, C, D, and E: Offer antioxidant protection, boost collagen production, and enhance overall skin health.
  • Terpenoids: Provide anti-inflammatory benefits, reducing redness and irritation.
  • Saponins: Natural cleansers that gently purify the skin without stripping its natural oils.

Antioxidants

Tsubaki oil is rich in various antioxidants that contribute to its skin-protective properties. Among these, polyphenols play a significant role by neutralizing free radicals and preventing oxidative stress. The oil also contains high levels of vitamins A, C, D, and E, which not only offer robust antioxidant protection but also support collagen production and overall skin health. Additionally, the presence of quercetin, quercetin-3-O-glucoside, quercitrin, and kaempferol enhances the oil's ability to combat environmental damage and aging effects. These antioxidants work synergistically to shield the skin from harmful pollutants and free radicals.

Fatty acids in camellia japonica

Fatty acids

Here's a list of the fatty acids and their percentages in Camellia Japonica Seed Oil:

  • Oleic Acid : 82.0%
  • Linoleic Acid : 7.0%
  • Palmitic Acid : 8.0%
  • Stearic Acid : 2.0%
  • Arachidic Acid : 1.0%

 As you can see, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil is particularly rich in oleic acid, which contributes to its moisturizing and skin-penetrating properties. Oleic acid is great at helping other ingredients absorb more efficiently into the skin.

Benefits

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil is a noncomedogenic oil that has many skin benefits including:

  • Anti-aging : Stimulates collagen production, reduces wrinkles, and improves skin elasticity.
  • Anti-inflammatory : Decreases inflammation by suppressing pro-inflammatory gene expression.
  • Moisturizing : Enhances skin hydration and reduces transepidermal water loss.
  • Antioxidant : Protects skin from oxidative stress and environmental pollutants.
  • Pollution protection : Shields skin cells from urban pollutants like cigarette smoke and heavy metals.
  • Skin barrier function : Strengthens the skin barrier, promoting better moisture retention and protection against external aggressors.
  • Antimicrobial- Has activity against bacteria and fungi
Is camellia Japonica seed oil safe

Safety

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil generally has a low hazard rating with a score of 1 from the Environmental Working Group (EWG), making it safe for most skin types. Side effects are rare but may include mild irritation for extremely sensitive skin types. During pregnancy, it is generally considered safe; however, no pregnancy safety studies have been done. 

Use in Skin Care Routines

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil is fat-soluble, which makes it compatible with other oil-based ingredients. It is generally compatible with most skincare ingredients, but care should be taken when mixing with highly acidic products or ingredients such as low pH Vitamin C serums.

Research Studies

Several studies (3) have explored the dermatologic benefits of Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, highlighting its potential in skincare. In 2005, Lee et al. determined that Camellia japonica leaf and flower extracts display significant antioxidant, antifungal, and antibacterial activities, with a stronger effect against gram-positive bacteria compared to gram-negative ones. Piao et al. (2011) reported that ethanol extracts from Camellia japonica flowers exhibited strong scavenging activity against reactive oxygen species in human HaCaT keratinocytes, enhancing the expression and function of antioxidant enzymes such as superoxide dismutase, catalase, and glutathione peroxidase. Yoon et al. (2017) found high concentrations of vitamin E and rutin in Camellia japonica leaf extract, which demonstrated antioxidant and anti-hyperuricemic activities in both in vitro and in vivo studies. In 2019, Kim et al. demonstrated that Camellia japonica flower extract effectively protected cultured normal human dermal fibroblasts from urban air pollutants-induced reactive oxygen species synthesis. Their ex vivo results showed that the extract suppressed matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 expression, promoted collagen production, and decreased levels of pollutants-induced malondialdehyde. These findings suggest that Camellia japonica flower extract holds promise as a protective agent against pollutant-induced cutaneous damage. Furthermore, Jeon et al. (2018) identified that extracts from Camellia japonica fruit and stems improved induced pluripotent stem cell (iPSC) generation in mouse and human skin and enhanced wound healing in an in vivo mouse wound model, indicating potential for developing clinical-grade iPSCs and advanced wound healing therapies.

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Level up your skin care knowledge with medical advice from dermatologists

Is Tsubaki oil noncomedogenic?

Yes Tsubaki oil, also called Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, does  not clog pores and is therefore noncomedogenic and safe in acne -prone skin.

Does camellia japonica oil grow eyelashes?

Tsubaki does not grow eyelashes.  It is included in eyelash growing serums due to its antimicrobial and moisturizing properties.

Best References and Scientific Publications on C. japonica:

  1. Baumann L. Antiaging Ingredients in Ch. 37 of Baumann's Cosmetic Dermatology Ed 3. (McGraw Hill 2022)
  2. Baumann, L. Ch. Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients (McGraw Hill 2015)
  3. Baumann, L. Camellia japonica in Dermatology News https://www.mdedge.com/dermatology/article/261014/aesthetic-dermatology/camellia-japonica/page/0/1
  4. Pereira AG, Garcia-Perez P, Cassani L, et al. Camellia japonica: A phytochemical perspective and current applications facing its industrial exploitation. Food Chem X. 2022;13:100258.
  5. Cho WK, Kim HI, Paek SH, et al. Gene expression profile of human follicle dermal papilla cells in response to Camellia japonica phytoplacenta extract. FEBS Open Bio. 2021;11(3):633-651.
  6. Chung MY, Epperson BK, Chung MG. Genetic structure of age classes in Camellia japonica (Theaceae). Evolution. 2003;57(1):62-73.
  7. Yoon IS, Park DH, Kim JE, et al. Identification of the biologically active constituents of Camellia japonica leaf and anti-hyperuricemic effect in vitro and in vivo. Int J Mol Med. 2017;39(6):1613-1620.
  8. Lee HH, Paudel KR, Jeong J, et al. Antiatherogenic Effect of Camellia japonica Fruit Extract in High Fat Diet-Fed Rats. Evid Based Complement Alternat Med. 2016;2016:9679867.
  9. Kim S, Jung E, Shin S, et al. Anti-inflammatory activity of Camellia japonica oil. BMB Rep. 2012;45(3):177-82.
  10. Majumder S, Ghosh A, Bhattacharya M. Natural anti-inflammatory terpenoids in Camellia japonica leaf and probable biosynthesis pathways of the metabolome. Bull Nat Res Cen. 2020;44(1):1-4.
  11. Lee SY, Hwang EJ, Kim GH, et al. Antifungal and Antioxidant Activities of Extracts from Leaves and Flowers of Camellia japonica L. Korean Journal of Medicinal Crop Science. 2005;13(3):93-100.
  12. Piao MJ, Yoo ES, Koh YS, et al. Antioxidant effects of the ethanol extract from flower of Camellia japonica via scavenging of reactive oxygen species and induction of antioxidant enzymes. Int J Mol Sci. 2011;12(4):2618-30.
  13. Kim M, Son D, Shin S, et al. Protective effects of Camellia japonica flower extract against urban air pollutants. BMC Complement Altern Med. 2019;19(1):30.
  14. Jeon H, Kim JY, Choi JK, et al. Effects of the Extracts from Fruit and Stem of Camellia japonica on Induced Pluripotency and Wound Healing. J Clin Med. 2018;7(11):449.
  15. Mizutani T, Masaki H. Anti-photoaging capability of antioxidant extract from Camellia japonica leaf. Exp Dermatol. 2014;23(Suppl 1):23-6.
  16. Jung E, Lee J, Baek J, et al. Effect of Camellia japonica oil on human type I procollagen production and skin barrier function. J Ethnopharmacol. 2007;112(1):127-31.
  17. Choi HK, Hwang K, Hong YD, et al. Ceramide NPs derived from natural oils of Korean traditional plants enhance skin barrier functions and stimulate expressions of genes for epidermal homeostasis. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022;21(10):4931-4941.
  18. Ha SY, Jung JY, Yang JK. Camellia japonica Essential Oil Inhibits α-MSH-Induced Melanin Production and Tyrosinase Activity in B16F10 Melanoma Cells. Evid Based Complement Alternat Med. 2021;2021:6328767.